No Pwer?

[npca-ryan_mcginnis]

I have  A 65 patrol, and have been rebuilding it from near ground up..........right now I have a problem which is as follows.   When I get it started, it runs rough, and nearly stalls even when warmed up, if I take My foot off the gas, or push the choke in.  And when I am driving it, it has no power, I can't shift out of first because A: I can't get much acceleration out of it, and B: it nearly stalls when I do get to the point where shifting becomes necessary.  It also burns through fuel at an incredible rate, I burned off 14 tank on a 12 mile drive after getting the starter rebuilt and reinstalled.   What are my potential problems and what can I doo about them??  

[npca-willie]

Make sure all the sparkplugs are fireing,I usually turn the idle up and pull off one plug wire at a time while it's running, if there is no change in sound then that cyclinder is not fireing.Check the points,timing.The carb is easy to clean on the patrol,just take the four screws out of the top and spray it with carb cleaner,take the pin out of the float assembly and remove the float valve,check to see if there is any gas in the floats.Take the fuel filter out and clean it.A while back my patrol would only start on starting fluid it turned out to some debre in the float valve and seat.Just a few Ideas

[npca-jeepy]

Is the timing set right?  Good spark on all cylinders?  What about the dwell?  Is your carb mixture adjusted right and are you getting enough fuel through the bowl?  Just things to think about....

[npca-roc8man]

Make sure your spark plug wires are attached to the distributor in the correct order. My third Patrol was purchased for almost nothing because it "didn't run". Well, the spark plug wires were backwards. Once fixed, it ran fine.   The other suggestions are good too. Check it all out.   David

[npca-gary]

My first guess is that the distributor is off a tooth. Turn the crankshaft to Top-Dead-Center check that the piston (remove the #1 plug to check) is a the top of it's travel and both intake and exhaust valves are closed.(this of course means removing the valve cover an see if both valve rockers are allowing the valves to close.) If not, rotate the crankshaft one full revolution and check again. Now lift the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 high tension lead, it should be. The other possibility is the cam is off timing. You have had that apart do remember checking that? You might check it again.        Good Luck.

[npca-pfohl patrol]

I'd mostly agree with Gary. I had a '76 Datsun 720 PU once with the exact same prob. It would start OK but had no power to go...Turned out the timing was 180* off. That's simply a matter of double checking your camshaft and resetting the timing chain- well, do Patrols have chains? Yes, I had been through it and THOUGHT I had it all pat, but to my surprise....Good Luck!

[npca-sehismith]

Could someone please post the correct order for the spark plug wires? I seem to have the same problem as above, so I have been doing some work. Unfortunately, I pulled the wires without documenting their positions. I have a diagram that shows 1-4-2-6-3-5, but this seems to be wrong. Is it? A photo would be great to have on the web site also! Stephen

[npca-gary]

Funny you should ask. I just reset my valves yesterday and had to go through this drill a couple of times. The Firing order is: 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4   For comfirmation I verified that both valves ( intake and exhaust ) were closed in this sequence as I rotated the crankshaft.  Just a note: most information that I have says that the valves should be set to .016" but the label on the valve cover says .015".  Since the label is unique to "my '69" I set the valves to this and it does run better, smoother and it feels stronger.

[npca-jahdavebob]

make sure that your points are not in contact with the body of the distributor, mine did and the problems sound the same