ckhorne's 1967 project
- Administrator

- Posts: 7830
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:42 am
- Location: Temecula, CA
- Has thanked: 7743 times
- Been thanked: 2482 times
- Contact:
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
Great progress.
You'll have that Patrol running soon enough. Then you can take the whole family for a ride in it. 
Beyond any hope for intervention

- You know you own a Patrol when…

- Posts: 190
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:14 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
- Has thanked: 49 times
- Been thanked: 141 times
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
Wow- two months have passed since my last update. It seems life keeps getting in the way. Anyway - some good progress.
I took the time to use a heavy duty wire brush on my angle grinder and worked at cleaning the transfer case. Miserable, but got it cleaned up and ready for painting. On the very, very last bit to be cleaned, the grinder slipped and ran up my other hand and arm. Luckily, I was wearing gloves. Unluckily, they stopped at my wrist...
I got a nice coat of POR-15 on and then painted it the same engine blue. It's amazing how much easier it is to work with parts that feel "new":
I took the time to use a heavy duty wire brush on my angle grinder and worked at cleaning the transfer case. Miserable, but got it cleaned up and ready for painting. On the very, very last bit to be cleaned, the grinder slipped and ran up my other hand and arm. Luckily, I was wearing gloves. Unluckily, they stopped at my wrist...
I got a nice coat of POR-15 on and then painted it the same engine blue. It's amazing how much easier it is to work with parts that feel "new":
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- You know you own a Patrol when…

- Posts: 190
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:14 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
- Has thanked: 49 times
- Been thanked: 141 times
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
I was able to track down some wire for the throwout bearing retainer clip at a local hobby store. .078 Music Wire (2mm) fit absolutely perfectly, and the tension also felt perfect. (I used K&S Metals / Stock #505)
Next up came mounting the transmission. With the help of a friend, I tried lifting it in place while he helped guide it in from the cabin. That lasted about 15 minutes before we both realized it was a futile effort.
I went down to Harbor Freight and bought their 450lb transmission jack. Worth. Every. Penny. At least for this project. I was able to get the transmission mounted in just 20 minutes by myself.
The transmission went so well that I was expecting something to go wrong with the transfer case. I cut out a new gasket to go between it and the transmission and mounted the xfer case to the transmission jack - that part took a little patience, since nothing is flat on that thing.
This one took a little longer - maybe 30-45 minutes of sliding back and forth, but still went on with relative ease. Finally use that 1 3/4" socket that I tracked down for the rear drive train nut... and voila
:
This method went incredibly easy. In fact, I don't think I'd do it any other way. Engine + clutch/bell housing via hoist first, and then tranny and transfer case via transmission jack second.
Next up came mounting the transmission. With the help of a friend, I tried lifting it in place while he helped guide it in from the cabin. That lasted about 15 minutes before we both realized it was a futile effort.
I went down to Harbor Freight and bought their 450lb transmission jack. Worth. Every. Penny. At least for this project. I was able to get the transmission mounted in just 20 minutes by myself.
The transmission went so well that I was expecting something to go wrong with the transfer case. I cut out a new gasket to go between it and the transmission and mounted the xfer case to the transmission jack - that part took a little patience, since nothing is flat on that thing.
This one took a little longer - maybe 30-45 minutes of sliding back and forth, but still went on with relative ease. Finally use that 1 3/4" socket that I tracked down for the rear drive train nut... and voila
This method went incredibly easy. In fact, I don't think I'd do it any other way. Engine + clutch/bell housing via hoist first, and then tranny and transfer case via transmission jack second.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- You know you own a Patrol when…

- Posts: 190
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:14 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
- Has thanked: 49 times
- Been thanked: 141 times
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
I found a shop that could weld cast iron and I dropped off my exhaust manifold. They called back a day or two and said they couldn't do it. I ended up with this:
I didn't have the patience to see if the engine would start while I was hunting down a replacement exhaust header, so I finally hooked everything up and gave it a try. And here's a video of the first go:
http://youtu.be/6dlgdsIRzds
You can hear the loud popping since the exhaust manifold has a big fat hole in it, but at least it runs. I'll have to admit that this was music to my ears, having never completely rebuilt an engine before!
At this point, I re-installed the fan, fan belt, alternator, and radiator hoses. I finalize the wiring to the alternator, temp sensor, and oil pressure sensor.
My machinist came over to help me do some basic tuning, set the timing, and properly adjust the valves. He also strongly advised against running the engine any longer than necessary until I had an exhaust manifold in place, due to lack of back pressure. We did have trouble keeping it running, but until I was able to track down a replacement, I was stuck.
I didn't have the patience to see if the engine would start while I was hunting down a replacement exhaust header, so I finally hooked everything up and gave it a try. And here's a video of the first go:
http://youtu.be/6dlgdsIRzds
You can hear the loud popping since the exhaust manifold has a big fat hole in it, but at least it runs. I'll have to admit that this was music to my ears, having never completely rebuilt an engine before!
At this point, I re-installed the fan, fan belt, alternator, and radiator hoses. I finalize the wiring to the alternator, temp sensor, and oil pressure sensor.
My machinist came over to help me do some basic tuning, set the timing, and properly adjust the valves. He also strongly advised against running the engine any longer than necessary until I had an exhaust manifold in place, due to lack of back pressure. We did have trouble keeping it running, but until I was able to track down a replacement, I was stuck.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- You know you own a Patrol when…

- Posts: 190
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:14 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
- Has thanked: 49 times
- Been thanked: 141 times
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
Flaggoni came through for me and was able to set me up with a new (well, uncracked) manifold.
So I spent last night reassembling intake / exhaust / carb. And today, for the first time since June, I drove around the block.
There seems to be a little tuning to do still, since the engine bogs down at times, but everything seems to work as it should, including clutch and shifting.
I found a couple small things that needed attention: My fan belt keeps slipping... it looks pretty worn, so probably best to just replace it. I had a couple leaks around my radiator hoses- easily fixed by just tightening the hose clamps. Gas is seeping out from the carb.... I had planned on rebuilding the carb anyway.
I still need to clean and paint the air filter and fan shroud.
And now, some gratuitous newly-rebuilt engine porn:
Note the drips near the front of the valve cover. I'm really frustrated that the engine paint is seemingly so susceptible to other fluids. In this case, it appears that the coolant leaks from the radiator hose clamps sprayed on there...
So I spent last night reassembling intake / exhaust / carb. And today, for the first time since June, I drove around the block.
I found a couple small things that needed attention: My fan belt keeps slipping... it looks pretty worn, so probably best to just replace it. I had a couple leaks around my radiator hoses- easily fixed by just tightening the hose clamps. Gas is seeping out from the carb.... I had planned on rebuilding the carb anyway.
I still need to clean and paint the air filter and fan shroud.
And now, some gratuitous newly-rebuilt engine porn:
Note the drips near the front of the valve cover. I'm really frustrated that the engine paint is seemingly so susceptible to other fluids. In this case, it appears that the coolant leaks from the radiator hose clamps sprayed on there...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- Administrator

- Posts: 2460
- Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:49 pm
- Location: Arizona
- Location: Arizona
- Has thanked: 800 times
- Been thanked: 1269 times
- Contact:
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
Looks great! 
L-R:
White 65 Hardtop L60-3-00617 (undergoing restoration)
Red 65 hardtop 4L60-002565 (scrapped for parts)
66 Hardtop "El-Bondo Patrol", L60-00511 (Restored, then sold June2020)
Blue 67 Hardtop (sold March1997)
Green 62 Softtop L60-2-00504 (undergoing restoration)
- You know you own a Patrol when…

- Posts: 190
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:14 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
- Has thanked: 49 times
- Been thanked: 141 times
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
My current problem is now a radiator leak. I can see it pooling up a little on the front:
And then more on the back:
I have absolutely zero experience with fixing radiators. Is this something I should be taking to a radiator shop, or is there an easier solution?
And then more on the back:
I have absolutely zero experience with fixing radiators. Is this something I should be taking to a radiator shop, or is there an easier solution?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- Administrator

- Posts: 2460
- Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:49 pm
- Location: Arizona
- Location: Arizona
- Has thanked: 800 times
- Been thanked: 1269 times
- Contact:
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
It depends on where the leak is -- if it is along a seem (like the front leak seems to be), then soldering it up is just like sweating a copper water pipe fitting.
If one of the core passages is leaking, then that gets a little more tricky, because the whole tank might have to come off to re-seal it...
If one of the core passages is leaking, then that gets a little more tricky, because the whole tank might have to come off to re-seal it...
L-R:
White 65 Hardtop L60-3-00617 (undergoing restoration)
Red 65 hardtop 4L60-002565 (scrapped for parts)
66 Hardtop "El-Bondo Patrol", L60-00511 (Restored, then sold June2020)
Blue 67 Hardtop (sold March1997)
Green 62 Softtop L60-2-00504 (undergoing restoration)
- Patrol Fanatic!

- Posts: 3011
- Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:28 am
- Location: Lutherville, MD
- Location: Lutherville, MD
- Has thanked: 6028 times
- Been thanked: 1608 times
ckhorne's 1967 project
Sorry to see byproduct of the wire cleaning in your arm.
Your tips about mounting the transmission are great, specially when working alone. The finished work looks great.
Your tips about mounting the transmission are great, specially when working alone. The finished work looks great.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
- Administrator

- Posts: 7830
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:42 am
- Location: Temecula, CA
- Has thanked: 7743 times
- Been thanked: 2482 times
- Contact:
Re: ckhorne's 1967 project
Congratulations!
That was pretty painless (except for the wire wheel mishap) especially considering it was your first engine rebuild. It all went pretty smoothly. It's got to make you feel proud.
I would recommend sending the radiator to a radiator shop. If you have a couple leaks that you can see already there will be more to follow once you seal those up. Plus it would be a good idea to have it rodded out while it's there. Your newly rebuilt engine will thank you for it.
I would recommend sending the radiator to a radiator shop. If you have a couple leaks that you can see already there will be more to follow once you seal those up. Plus it would be a good idea to have it rodded out while it's there. Your newly rebuilt engine will thank you for it.
Beyond any hope for intervention
