Brake Master Cylinder Compatibility

[alber garage]

There is this listing for an aftermarket dual reservoir master cylinder fitting 73-80 G60 Patrols.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Master-Cy ... 75&vxp=mtr


What about this part would make it incompatible earlier patrols like my '69? Is it only the position where the brake lines connect? Would there be an issue for an LHD patrol like mine?

I am pretty unhappy with the non-standard Dorman one that I made fit in mine and would like to switch to something like this. I am considering running new lines anyway so I don't mind if the connection position is different.

Thanks,
Steve

[RiverPatrol]

You can get a Wilwood dual master that will bolt right up to the Patrol. It is the one that has already been modified to fit the Z. It runs about $200, you can find it on eBay sometimes. Search here for Wilwood and you'll probably find a link.

[jwgreen]

There is this listing for an aftermarket dual reservoir master cylinder fitting 73-80 G60 Patrols.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Master-Cy ... 75&vxp=mtr


What about this part would make it incompatible earlier patrols like my '69? Is it only the position where the brake lines connect? Would there be an issue for an LHD patrol like mine?

I am pretty unhappy with the non-standard Dorman one that I made fit in mine and would like to switch to something like this. I am considering running new lines anyway so I don't mind if the connection position is different.

Thanks,
Steve

I believe this is the one Robert got and he says it bolts right up. I bought the Willwood one but you will have to cut the mounting holes out to slots because they are not the proper spacing.

[moore_rb]

Yes, the Protex MC out of Australia supposedly fits the stock Patrol firewall bolt pattern perfectly. It will not fit your Ford "fruit jar" style bolt pattern, however... so you will have to modify your firewall back to stock in order to run the Protex MC.

the other modification necessary to adapt a dual circuit MC to your brake system is to eliminate the tee on the frame rail below the MC, and run one dedicated brake line to the tee on the front axle, and a 2nd line to the tee on the rear axle.

I've been on the hook to do a "how to" about this with pictures for months, but at the moment I just don't happen to have a Patrol that is in immediate need of functional brakes...

[alber garage]

So lately I have found that my current master cylinder, the Ford "Fruit Jar" as you call it, has been sticking. It locks the brakes up and the only way to release them is to bleed the master. After I bleed it, it seems to operate fine for a while before it decides to seize up again.

Any idea why it is doing this? I haven't owned it that long and I bought it new.

[alber garage]

You can get a Wilwood dual master that will bolt right up to the Patrol. It is the one that has already been modified to fit the Z. It runs about $200, you can find it on eBay sometimes. Search here for Wilwood and you'll probably find a link.

Do you have any information on exactly which model? What search terms do you use to find it on ebay? It seems like the listing from Australia will probably work but I'd like to see what the Wilwood one looks like too. This one seems to have the right bore size - is this the one you're referring to?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-260-879 ... 84&vxp=mtr

[RiverPatrol]

This is the Wilwood that has already had the modification made so it will bolt right up to the stock firewall: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-510-620- ... 98&vxp=mtr

[moore_rb]

So lately I have found that my current master cylinder, the Ford "Fruit Jar" as you call it, has been sticking. It locks the brakes up and the only way to release them is to bleed the master. After I bleed it, it seems to operate fine for a while before it decides to seize up again.

Any idea why it is doing this? I haven't owned it that long and I bought it new.

That sounds like one of 3 things to me:

1) The rod is not fully disengaging from the piston when you release the pedal, and is keeping pressure in the system.
2) The brake springs are not "pulling" the pistons on the wheel cylinders back in when the pedal is released (this action is what "pushes" the fluid back up into the MC)- Are all 6 wheel cylinders in good working order?
3) Excessive Heat in the brake system might be causing the fluid to expand and engage the brakes.

[alber garage]

1) The rod is not fully disengaging from the piston when you release the pedal, and is keeping pressure in the system.
2) The brake springs are not "pulling" the pistons on the wheel cylinders back in when the pedal is released (this action is what "pushes" the fluid back up into the MC)- Are all 6 wheel cylinders in good working order?
3) Excessive Heat in the brake system might be causing the fluid to expand and engage the brakes.

Here's my take on these:

1) This seems very possible since its not designed for this application
2) I have not replaced the springs so this seems possible. Any lead on where I can get all new springs? The cylinders themselves are all new so I don't think those are malfunctioning
3) This is possible but what can I do about it? I'd like to address the other options first

[alber garage]

This is the Wilwood that has already had the modification made so it will bolt right up to the stock firewall: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-510-620- ... 98&vxp=mtr

Hmm. I am wondering what modification they actually did. $100 dollar difference seems like a lot if the modification can be made on my end.