VW TDI Transplant

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VW TDI Transplant

Post by Peter60 »

EDITS

02 February 2025 I'm unable to keep building this post due to some limit so I have created another post. See that.

31 December 2024 added INTERFACE TO BELLHOUSING ASSEMBLY PROCESS.


OVERVIEW

I’m in the process of putting at VW TDI engine in my 1977 G60 LWB Patrol.

The project has been on-going for two years 😊. It most likely has another few months to go!

I plan to report to this forum the trials and tribulations and hopefully the success for having a TDI transplanted into a G60.

THIS WRITE UP WILL TAKE ME SOME TIME (WEEKS/MONTHS) TO COMPLETE. But I thought it was worth while putting some detail down as I progress.

I will continue to edit this post, so all details are in the one spot. [No longer possible]

WHY TDI?

I’ve had diesel Golfs since 2006. I think they are great reliable cars. I did look at transplanting a complete AMAROK TDI and drivetrain, there were plenty available cheap in 2020 after a devastating hail storm, but it looked just too hard. Then TD Conversions came up with interface plates to the standard G60 bellhousing – I was excited.

In the USA in particular, there are so may TDIs being transplanted into all sorts of vehicles. 4WD vehicles are fairly dominant in that transplant list so it looks like a true and tried product. And there was a lot of help and experience out there in all the internet chat sessions as well.

INTRODUCTION

I purchased a donor car in January 2023. A VW Jetta 2008 with a 2.0 TDI BKD engine. It had 200,000 Kms on the clock (125,000 ,miles). It was still a lovely car and a bit of a shame to wreck it.

There are a lot of VW TDI engines out there and they differ in many ways, so the BKD is very significant. The BKD was very common in Australia around 2006-2008. It was used in Golf, Jetta, Audi A3 and a few others. The BKD has ‘PD’ injectors, not common rail.

When purchased the car was drivable but had a bad injector. I replaced the injector before I removed the engine. So, I had a ‘good’ running engine to start with.

I pulled the engine/wiring out and proceeded to get it running “on the floor”. I left the VW gearbox on so I could use the starter motor to start the engine.
1.jpg
2.jpg
3a.jpg
My approach was to get it running on the floor using all the existing wiring, ECU and cluster. You needed the cluster to get the immobiliser to work. So, I pulled out heaps of wiring and demolished the car from the front bumper up to the front seats.

After a very short time I abandoned trying to get the engine to run with the original ECU/immobiliser/cluster/key (just too hard and very messy). I should have followed others advice! I then purchased an ECU with the immobiliser deleted.

I was able to get the TDI started and then spent a long, long time sorting out the errors and wiring. Really, there was a long learning curve understanding all the electronic components - I really had very little knowledge of the TDI internals or even diesel engines! So its been a massive intellectual challenge as well. Many hours was spent doing research, finding documents and on forums.
4.jpg
5.jpg
6.jpg
There is software for VWs called VCDS from Ross-Tech. This allows you to run diagnostics and do trouble shooting and some tuning. The TDI is a very sophisticated engine with SO much controlled from the ECU. VCDS is essential in diagnosing problems, although not cheap. You may be able to use the VCDS 'Lite' version as a fraction of the cost of the full version.
7.jpg
Once I had the engine wiring/electronics sorted out I moved on to the next stage.

TDI TO G60 INTERFACE PLATES

TD Conversions, in Canada, built the necessary interface plates to marry the TDI engine to the G60 bellhousing. Many thanks to MAD4HWS in this forum for making that happen.

See TD Conversions https://tdconversions.com/collections/n ... dapter-kit

I ordered the set in January 2024 and now December 2024, nearly 12 months later, have worked out how to assembled them to the bellhousing and in the process of dropping the TDI into the G60.

What TD Conversions have engineered are two interface plates. The first plate bolts onto the engine. It seems to fit the various versions of the 4-cylinder TDI, more specifically the 1.9 and the 2.0 litre engines. The second plate is custom made for the bellhousing/gearbox of various vehicles.

The two plates then bolt together.

A fairly simple concept.

The TDI engine is at 15degree slope in the standard VW cars. They go east-west and I think it slopes back 15degrees. Having the two plates means you can turn the plates and achieve a 15, 10 or zero degree engine slope. I used the zero slope. Others use the various slopes so they can fit the TDI into the engine bay.

Additional you get a crankshaft extender (say 50mm/2 inches) and a starter motor. Various bolts are provided.

I also purchased generic engine mounts from TD Conversions in case they were needed. As it turned out I didn’t need/use them.

INTERFACE TO BELLHOUSING ASSEMBLY PROCESS.

Generic assembly instructions were provided by TD Conversions. The instructions don’t mention the G60 but there are other Nissan variants covered. I suggest that connecting the TDI, plates and bellhousing is fairly a simple process for the G60 compared to some other models.

I did go through this assembly process a few times to made sure it all worked. I did need to change the way the bellhousing bolted onto the plates and I also added a new ‘lift point’ so the engine was put in straight.

The first plate, the plate that bolts onto the TDI engine fitted well. It came with a number of M12 and M10 bolts. One of the M12 bolts is 35mm whilst the remainder are 40mm. Take care where you put the 35mm bolt as its hole isn’t as deep as the others.
01. TDI S.jpg
I numbered all the bolts along with the plate so I knew where every bolt went. The short M12 bolt went to position 1. This was a little different to the documentation.
02. Plate 1.jpg
The second plate was a bit trickier to install. I needed to cut off the top about 10-15mm. The reason for this was that on my TDI engine there were pipes in the way of the plate just at the top. I didn’t want to relocate the pipes so chose to cut down the top of the plate.
06. Pipes.jpg
Once cut down the plate installed smoothly.
07. Assembled.jpg
I decided to have zero slope (and hoped that was appropriate) on the engine and therefore used hole A on the first plate with hole 1 on the second plate.

I needed to install the spigot in the crankshaft extender. It is the same process as in the P engine. An easy process – especially with the crankshaft extender on the bench top.
04. Spigot.jpg
The second plate connects plate 1 and to the bellhousing. It uses just 4 bolts (the same as the P engine), for the bellhousing. However, the two top bolts are difficult – to say the least! I had several attmpts and finally came up with a solution that worked for me.

My first attempt was to put the top two bolts through the bellhousing and through the plate. Nuts are required on the other side – between the plate and TDI engine – however there is just enough room and very difficult to get a spanner on the nuts. I tried again supergluing the nuts on the plate. It sort-of worked but not really practical for future maintenance.

For my final attempt I pulled the plate off and pushed the bolts from the engine side through the holes into the bellhousing. To hold the bolts in place I out a small plastic tube in the holes and then hammered the bolts through. They were held very tightly. The plates are put on the engine then the bellhousing is put on with the nuts on the inside. Success. I just hope the plastic tube doesn’t deteriorate over time and fill make future maintenance difficult.
05. Plate 2.jpg
09. Assembled 1.jpg
The final thing that I need to do was to ensure the engine lift straight. The two engine lift points were designed for the engine to have a 15 degree lean. It was impossible installing the engine like that. I fabricated another lift point which I placed at the top of plate 1. The engine then had the correct orientation (zero lean) to install the TDI.
08. Hook Point.jpg
A starter motor comes with the TD Conversions kit. This bolts onto one of the plates and goes into the bellhousing. The generic instructions state that you may need to modify (cut/grind) the bellhousing to make the starter motor fit. This is not necessary as the starter motor fits perfectly.

I did note however that the bolts that came with the starter motor are just a little too long. I noticed that one bolt pushed against the plate and caused a distortion. I just added a couple of additional washers until I acquire a bolt of the correct length.
12. Starter Motor.jpg
There are two ‘gasket’ plates – one that came was between the TDI and the gearbox and another between the P engine and the bellhousing. I contacted TD Conversions to see if either of these were needed. No was their response.
11. Not Required.jpg
The flywheel, clutch pressure plate and bearing were installed and the TDI is ready for the gearbox and transfer case.

INSTALLING THE TDI INTO THE G60

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Re: VW TDI Transplant

Post by RiverPatrol »

This will be interesting to follow. Thanks!
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Re: VW TDI Transplant

Post by Peter60 »

VW TDI TRANSPLANT PART 2

It looks like I hit some limit with trying to keep everything in the one place!.

INSTALLING THE TDI INTO THE G60

The fact I installed a new lift point on the engine meant the engine could be lifted in a straight/balanced fashion. Installing just the engine and bellhousing was easy. It was easy to lift and fairly easy to get into position.

The bellhousing mounts were used to position the engine. Once they were in place it is fairly easy to sort out the front engine mounts.

The TDI engine is VERY tight sideways – between the drivers foot well and the passenger foot well. It also is very tight at the rear on the firewall.
Install 01. No Space.jpg
Install 02. No space 2.jpg
I needed to cut out a small chunk of the passenger firewall (remember my G60 is RHD) to accommodate the EGR. Once done the engine fitted.
Install 03. Cut.jpg
Install 04. Cut.jpg
Note. I needed to come back later can cut the bracket circled in red, as the EGR input pipe needed extra room. I also need to relocate the two brake lines curls as the intercooler pipes needed more space.
Install 05. Brake lines.jpg
Install 06. Repaired and problem.jpg
I think it would make the fitting easier and remove future potential problems if I removed the EGR and associated components (cooler). However, in Australia when you put a non-original motor in a vehicle you need to get it certified by an automotive engineer (for registration and insurances purposes). They require the engine to have all the components fitted!

The TDI when in the VW vehicles have engine mounts that are at the top (front) of the engine. I decided to use this for the mount. This allowed me to use the existing P engine front engine mounts points and build up a structure to meet the TDI mount point.
Install 10. Front mount.jpg
Install 11. Engine Mount.jpg
Install 12. Engine Mount.jpg
Install 13. Engine Mount.jpg

The structure is fairly heavy, only has two bolts to fix it to the chassis and has plenty of space to work. It balances the engine fairly well.

Had I used the generic engine mounts from TDI Conversions, would mean the TDI engine would be fixed half way on the engine and require alterations/fixing points on the chassis.

The space is so tight on each side and the rear that you really need to pull the engine out to work on those areas!

I put the TDI motor in and out several times. With just the bellhousing it was easy but as I added the gearbox and transfer case it became harder and harder – but doable. It just takes a lot of effort, manoeuvring and patience. I don’t look forward to doing that too often.

As it turns out at the back of the TDI is a radiator pipe connector. I put all the engine, intercooler and radiator in and found out the rear connection was leaking ☹ I ended un pulling it all out again to get to the rear of the engine to replace the radiator hose.

However, success. The TDI engine is in.
Install 15. Installed.jpg
Install 16. Instaled.jpg

RADIATOR and INTERCOOLER
I decided to use the original VW radiator and intercooler (with fan).
I thought easy! I was wrong!
<TO COME>
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Re: VW TDI Transplant

Post by Esteban »

Congratulations Peter! Great write up that I'm sure it will become a good reference for other members. Fun read too.
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Re: VW TDI Transplant

Post by L60Boerne »

I can't wait to see this one run. I was actually thinking about your conversion on our drive back from Winslow. Go Peter Go!

Your are a Nissan Ninja!

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Re: VW TDI Transplant PART 3

Post by Peter60 »

RADIATOR and INTERCOOLER

Radiator

I decided to use the original VW Jetta radiator and intercooler (with fan). I also decided to try and use the intercooler pipes but for the radiator I needed new hoses.

The TDI in a standard VW is an east-west layout. The engine cooling outlets on the engine are fairly easy to access. However, when the TDI goes into the G60 Patrol the configuration is north-south, one of the cooling outlets is right at the rear very close to the firewall.

I didn’t try to reuse any of the original radiator hoses. Initially I used 32mm stainless steel flexible/bendable radiator hose. It was 1.2m (48”) long and I needed two of them. The hoses are very long to travel the length of the G60 Patrol engine bay. The connectors for the SS hose are a bit ‘chunky’. See next image.
IMG_2499.jpg
One of these connectors leaked as I didn’t tighten it correctly. Of course it was right at the back of the engine! I needed to take out the engine to gain access. A lot of wasted effort and a bit frustrating.

Try two. I purchased some 32mm silicone hose. It wasn’t flexible enough so I ended up using a combination of silicone pipe from the engine and then connected it to the stainless steel radiator hose. This meant there was only a single join and I made sure that the join were in easy to access positions! I was a little unsure if the join would hold. I thought the silicone might crush. It appears to work but sometime in the future I will add a small 32mm stainless steel sleeve inside the silicone so it won't crush and maybe some 'glue' around the stainless steel pipe to ensure no leaks.

I will spend some time to clean up the alignment of all hoses sometime after I have the TDI running.

Something I considered but didn’t do, was to cut the firewall out between the engine bay and the cabin and replace it with a removeable panel. This would allow easy access to the water outlet plus some other components. If I pull the engine out again I will make this modification.

The fan isn't installed yet, but it will be controlled by the ECU.


Intercooler

The intercooler is fairly wide. It just sits between the internal fenders. I actually needed to stretch the contact areas of the internal mudguards/fenders out a few centimetres out. I used the original radiator lower mounting point for both radiator and intercooler. The radiator sits on the "L" steel bar.
IMG_2489.jpg
The bonnet just closes without hitting the radiator as the radiator sits high.

For the intercooler I decided to use the original hoses and cut and join them as necessary. This really didn’t work as the original intercooler pipes are tapered and therefore different sizes. They also were curved for the VW installation. It was difficult to get them in the correct position and aligned correctly.

One of the intercooler outlets is at right angles to the intercooler and the other at a bit of a strange angle. The strange angle outlet was also right on the steering box (I have RHD) making it hard to work with.

The turbo, intercool and inlet manifold all have special VW connectors with different sizes/diameters. I therefore cut off the appropriate connector and joined it with silicone tube or pipe to get them to align.

The turbo to the steering box piping was just OK. Currently it is a bit twisted near the steering box.

The other pipe from the input manifold is very tight on space. I needed to put an “L” silicone pipe, then a bit of the MAF pipe (so I could put in the MAF sensor), this wan the followed by 50mm silicone pipe which allowed a bit of flex to align with the intercooler connection.
IMG_2475.jpg
Space is a bit tight with the intercooler and two radiator hoses coming out at the same spot. The radiator hoses then cross over.
IMG_2477.jpg
This configuration is good enough for ‘proof of concept. I will rework the intercooler when I have time.

A few pictures of the final product.
IMG_2519.jpg
IMG_2520.jpg
IMG_2521.jpg
IMG_2522.jpg
In hindsight, I think I should have gone with a new intercooler – one that aligned with the turbo and input manifold so I could have straight runs for the pipes. The radiator would also need to be replaced so it mated up to the smaller intercooler correctly.

So it was ready for a test, but NO. I had issues with the clutch. I had installed the throw-out bearing arm/lever incorrectly !!! This was resolved by removing the lower inspection plate and rotating it 180degrees.


TO GO

1. Exhaust fitted

2. Minor integration of TDI components - I still need to plumb some in.

3. Integrate G60 wiring with TDI wiring

4. Test drive and prove reliability. I have had a short test drive. I'm NOT disappointed:)

5. Resolve any errors. Software is reporting issues with injector #1 :(
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Re: VW TDI Transplant

Post by RiverPatrol »

Amazing.
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Re: VW TDI Transplant PART 4

Post by Peter60 »

EXHAUST

If you ever want a challenge then try building an exhaust for my TDI!

I should say that there are various TDI models. Mine is a BKD. The turbo/exhaust is below the inlet ports and to make it worse the turbo exhaust faces to the rear just above a very large starter motor. There is absolutely no room to get an exhaust in! Well, that what I thought until I asked a mate, Adam, to sort it out whilst I went away for two weeks.

Other models of TDI – I think the ALH – which is used in many of the USA TDI swaps – have the turbo on top which makes fitting an exhaust much simpler. Other options are that you can buy manifolds that reverse the location of the turbo, which should also simplify things.

When I can back after 2 weeks away the exhaust was on. Around the turbo is so cramped that I can’t really can’t get a decent photo. Actually I can’t even see how the exhaust is routed!

Also, before I add some photos I should say that in Australia if you do an engine transplant, no matter the manufacturer, size etc, if the donor engine had any pollution gear then it all needs to be fitted in the transplant.

So, this is the exhaust from the turbo. The pipe comes out from the turbo towards the firewall, twists and goes in towards the engine then goes down.
IMG_2559.jpg
IMG_2559.jpg

From the down pipe it goes sideways between the springs ( :shock: ) and behind the wheel where the large DPF is.
IMG_2560.jpg

Then under the cabin
IMG_2562.jpg


Up from below the cabin to below the tray
IMG_2563.jpg


And then out the rear
IMG_2564.jpg

So I now have an exhaust.

The G60 is now driveable but I still need to do a few things.

But it is so close :D I hope just a few more days!

TO GO


1. Minor integration of TDI components - I still need to plumb some in- air filter and flow. I need to increase the height of the radiator 'ball' reservoir otherwise there will be air in the coolant system.

2. Fuel tank and pipes - largely done

3. Integrate G60 wiring with TDI wiring - most now done

4. Test drive and prove reliability. I have had several short test drive. I'm NOT disappointed:), but it seems noisier than I expected (early days)

5. Resolve any errors. Software is reporting issues with injector #1 :(
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Re: VW TDI Transplant

Post by L60Boerne »

Peter, That is so impressive. I can't for the field test! You will be so satisfied with your great efforts.
Go Peter go!
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Re: VW TDI Transplant PART 5

Post by Peter60 »

AIR FILTER

I planned to use the original Jetta air box and just plumb it in. The MAF sensor and a vacuum lead connects directly to the air box.

I used the Jetta air box mount (underneath the air box) and I needed to cut it down so I could bolt the main supports onto the front engine mount (top). There were already a couple of unused (small) bolt threads on the top of the engine mount, so I didn’t interfere with the integrity of the engine mount.

The air box is mounted on the left hand front area. I needed to move the radiator ‘ball’ reservoir and some radiator hoses, slightly.
IMG_2570.jpg
IMG_2569.jpg
IMG_2568.jpg

I used plumbing PVC piping ! It was the right size. However I will replace it wit some silicone angles and metal pipping when I have time.

I still need to find a better fitting from the air box to the pipes. Hopefully a silicone reducer pipe. However, tape will do for the current time.

ELECTRICS

As I used the VW alternator, I needed to remove all the wiring from the P engine alternator to the voltage regulator and then from the voltage regulator to a plug near the headlights. I also removed the voltage regulator.

I introduced two new fuse boxes:

1. A small 4 high capacity fuse box. Uses MIDI fuses up to 200amps

2. A standard 12 blade fuse box. I only used about 6 blades.


The small fuse box with MIDI fuses were used as follows:
On one side the 4 terminals are linked together. The battery lead connects to that side.

On the other side
The lead from the alternator with a 200amp fuse.
A wire to the the 12 blade fuse box, via a relay. 50amp fuse.
A wire to the glow plugs, via a relay. 50amp fuse
A wire to the radiator fan with an 80amp fuse (not connected yet)
IMG_2582.jpg
TDI to G60 Wiring v1.jpg


Relays were used to ensure there was no batter drain unless the ignition key was on.
IMG_2585.jpg
I used the wire to the old coil as the trigger to both relays as well to Pin 18 of the ECU. Pin 18 is used to turn the ECU on.

I’m mounting the ECU and some loose wiring under the glovebox. I'll put in a simple shelf and keep it there.

FUEL TANK and LINES

After much indecision I decided to retain the existing 63Litre fuel tank. Part of my indecision was that I wanted a long range tank. With the P engine I get about 350kms range. That's about 18 litres per 100 kms.

My thinking is that if I got half that with the TDI, say 9L/100Kms, would have a range of 700 kms – which is great. If I get better the 9L/100kms (which I hope on the highway) then I start to have a range of 1000kms – which would be fantastic. Time will tell.

The TDI fuel filter has an inlet line and a return line. I ran new lines back to the tank using mainly the lines that were in the Jetta. These were nylon, I think. Black - fuel to the fuel filter, Blue - return fuel line.
The return line tapped into the G60 tank breather line, I hope that works.

IMG_2578.jpg
IMG_2579.jpg
IMG_2580.jpg
I tried to make the fuel gauge accurate. I measured 30 litres and set the gauge to half. However, in adding another 30 litres the gauge showed about 80% full.

I’m unsure if I need a lift pump. The Jetta had one. So as a cautionary measure I have put an electric pump close to the fuel filter. It sucks the fuel from the fuel tank and pushes it into the fuel filter and unused fuel returns to the tank via the return line. I will make that switchable from within the cabin.

NEXT STEP

Well its running now and drivable :D

I'll report the issues as they occur!
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