Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Excellent work done and great pictures.
At times I thought I needed a diagram to better understand, so had to revisit the whole post reading
Congratulations. I don’t think you’ll need to worry abouy the 0.1”.
At times I thought I needed a diagram to better understand, so had to revisit the whole post reading
Congratulations. I don’t think you’ll need to worry abouy the 0.1”.
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Great step-by-step with pics. Looks good! 

Beyond any hope for intervention

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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Thank you River and Esteban!
Right now my plan is to get the brakes plumbed up (brake lines are made, just waiting to be put on) and then run a test to make sure the each of the brake circuits work when the other one fails. (You literally cause a leak in one circuit and test whether the other circuit works.)
But first, I want to finish cleaning/painting underneath before putting the brake lines on. Next trip to my Mom's will be to degrease/pressure wash the underside. I am NOT looking forward to that.
Right now my plan is to get the brakes plumbed up (brake lines are made, just waiting to be put on) and then run a test to make sure the each of the brake circuits work when the other one fails. (You literally cause a leak in one circuit and test whether the other circuit works.)
But first, I want to finish cleaning/painting underneath before putting the brake lines on. Next trip to my Mom's will be to degrease/pressure wash the underside. I am NOT looking forward to that.

Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Decided that If I wait to install the brake lines until after painting the underside of the Patrol, it will be next year before the brakes are operable.
So, today I went to my Mom's with everything I needed to install the brake lines that I'd already made up, as well as the hoses. Got all of them installed except the front passenger side brake line that runs along the axle, and the hose that jumpers from the axle to the backing plate.
Next week I'll get the remaining passenger side front hose/line installed, and make up the lines from the Wilwood m/c down the junction blocks. I'm using the original junction block that split the brakes to front and back for the rear circuit........just installed a male inverted flare plug in the outlet that used to feed the front. Will have to install another junction block that the brake line from the m/c front circuit will attach to, and then make a jumper from this block to the inlet of the front axle hose.
Here are some pics from today; sorry for the lousy pics but the sun was playing havoc with the camera for some reason.
Front drivers side brake line: Front drivers side brake hose: Hose going to front axle: Brake line running along frame under drivers side door the rear axle: End of the brake line going to the rear, and hooked to the rear hose: The full rear brake hose: Rear drivers side brake line, the junction block that is attached with the hose (replace the original brass junction block and eliminates one leak point), and part of the passenger side rear line: Rest of the rear drivers side brake line:

So, today I went to my Mom's with everything I needed to install the brake lines that I'd already made up, as well as the hoses. Got all of them installed except the front passenger side brake line that runs along the axle, and the hose that jumpers from the axle to the backing plate.
Next week I'll get the remaining passenger side front hose/line installed, and make up the lines from the Wilwood m/c down the junction blocks. I'm using the original junction block that split the brakes to front and back for the rear circuit........just installed a male inverted flare plug in the outlet that used to feed the front. Will have to install another junction block that the brake line from the m/c front circuit will attach to, and then make a jumper from this block to the inlet of the front axle hose.
Here are some pics from today; sorry for the lousy pics but the sun was playing havoc with the camera for some reason.
Front drivers side brake line: Front drivers side brake hose: Hose going to front axle: Brake line running along frame under drivers side door the rear axle: End of the brake line going to the rear, and hooked to the rear hose: The full rear brake hose: Rear drivers side brake line, the junction block that is attached with the hose (replace the original brass junction block and eliminates one leak point), and part of the passenger side rear line: Rest of the rear drivers side brake line:
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Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Excellent progress and great description of what you’ve done.
For some reason I’m getting two of the pictures incomplete.
For some reason I’m getting two of the pictures incomplete.
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
That's a lot of tedious work right there. Congrats, it looks great.

They all seem complete for me? Maybe they're just not fully loading, I have that issue on some of faux40's posts. I refresh the page and it's fine.Esteban wrote:
For some reason I’m getting two of the pictures incomplete.
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
I really like the protective spring-wrap on the lines. I just might copy that!
j
j
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Most all the original lines had a black plastic-type 'sleeve' over them, so the spring-wrap was the only similar protection option I could find. Plus, the nickel-copper brake line is not as 'stiff' as regular steel line and bends easily (and to me seems like it could be more susceptible to damage off-road), so this provides some protection and stiffness to the lines.faux40 wrote:I really like the protective spring-wrap on the lines. I just might copy that!
j
Here is where I got it, off of eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/191718147670
In fact, your comment reminded me I needed to order some more for the lines from the m/c to the junction blocks.

Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Here's a wild idea........stay with me this is WILD........I still have the issue of the pushrod stroke being 1 inch (although I plan to take off the m/c and measure this much more accurately) and the Wilwood m/c requiring a 1.10 inch stroke. My plan had been to modify the floorpan to allow the pedal to stroke further
What if your made a .09" shim that was a .001th or so bigger than the bore of the MC
pulled the guts out of the MC
freeze the shim so it shrinks (liquid nitrogen or dry ice)
drop the shim into the very bottom of the bore
then reassemble the MC.
Wouldn't this effectively make up the difference in stroke with from what I can tell no loss of any function??
I asked Wilwood and they said while this may work they could not condone it. But they did confirm the only thing that sets the stroke depth on the MC is the depth of the bore itself.
I mean it's gotta work right????????





Justin
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Went to work on the Patrol today. Installed the front passenger side hose and brake line (sorry, no pictures)........but not without some extra work. The front sway bar comes very close to the front axle where the brake line goes, and I couldn't work the pre-bent line in place because of the sway bar. So, removed the links and bushings and allowed it to drop down to provide clearance.
Used TIG wire to make a pattern of the line from the m/c rear port (actually the port in the front of the m/c but it goes to the rear brakes) to the junction block. Bent the line up, and installed the flare nut and flared the tubing. Connected the flare nut to the m/c, but noticed that the 'short' flare nut almost bottoms out on the m/c port. Decided to use a 'long' flare nut on the two m/c connections, so this stopped me since those were at home. I can make up the line at home for the m/c to the rear brake junction block, however, since there is a pattern to go by.
Decided to determine where to mount the junction block for the line to the front brakes, but a bracket for the snowplow setup was in the way. Removed the bracket (bolts on with four bolts, two right above the frame rail, and two right below). However, need the 90 degree drill to make the hole to bolt the junction block on, so that will have to wait until next time.
The sway bar bushings and link bushings are in terrible shape, so used the Compatible Parts List tonight to order new Energy Suspension links and bushings/brackets off Amazon. No use bolting the sway bar back with disintegrated rubber pieces.
Will get back to this one day next week......bolt the sway bar up with the new links/bushings, plumb from the m/c to the junction blocks, adjust the brakes, and fill with brake fluid. I plan on gravity bleeding the system first, then get my brother to help me do the final bleeding. Hopefully no leaks, but I'm still concerned about the condition of the female flares in the original junction blocks. Used the best ones, but won't know until the system gets filled. Had originally planned to use DOT 5 fluid, but that requires a super tight system so I'm leery of going that way.
Used TIG wire to make a pattern of the line from the m/c rear port (actually the port in the front of the m/c but it goes to the rear brakes) to the junction block. Bent the line up, and installed the flare nut and flared the tubing. Connected the flare nut to the m/c, but noticed that the 'short' flare nut almost bottoms out on the m/c port. Decided to use a 'long' flare nut on the two m/c connections, so this stopped me since those were at home. I can make up the line at home for the m/c to the rear brake junction block, however, since there is a pattern to go by.
Decided to determine where to mount the junction block for the line to the front brakes, but a bracket for the snowplow setup was in the way. Removed the bracket (bolts on with four bolts, two right above the frame rail, and two right below). However, need the 90 degree drill to make the hole to bolt the junction block on, so that will have to wait until next time.
The sway bar bushings and link bushings are in terrible shape, so used the Compatible Parts List tonight to order new Energy Suspension links and bushings/brackets off Amazon. No use bolting the sway bar back with disintegrated rubber pieces.
Will get back to this one day next week......bolt the sway bar up with the new links/bushings, plumb from the m/c to the junction blocks, adjust the brakes, and fill with brake fluid. I plan on gravity bleeding the system first, then get my brother to help me do the final bleeding. Hopefully no leaks, but I'm still concerned about the condition of the female flares in the original junction blocks. Used the best ones, but won't know until the system gets filled. Had originally planned to use DOT 5 fluid, but that requires a super tight system so I'm leery of going that way.
Paul