Marks 5 Speed

[G60michael]

Hi there anyone know what the clutch plate number for the Marks 5 Speed Box is ? Cheers

[Peter60]

R10767W - This is mentioned on the original MARKS installation instructions.

The only Goggle search for that part no shows up this http://www.allpartsautomotive.com.au/on ... 035806.htm

[Peter60]

I want to replace my clutch and I have a Marks 5 speed box.

Any recommendations for the replace clutch? What about the clutch drive plate which is a non standard G60 part for the Marks 5 speed.

I also understand also that the spigot is different. Again where can I purchase one?

I wonder a clutch kit for NISSAN patrol GQ TD42 y60 4.2l would fit. Or some other Nissan model. Any ideas?

[limited slip]

I cannot comment with certainty regarding the clutch plate from a p motor/3speed being compatible.

I can say with dead certainty that the sd33t clutch plate has identical diameter and spline count as the input shaft on my two marks boxes. I know that because I swapped the bell housings over and b bolted the marks straight up behind my sd33t....

Further to that, my clutch on my sd33t was a std gq td42 item. They're identical and bolt straight onto most sd33t flywheels.

The sd33t and p40 patrols have identical clutches....

If you want to be 100 percent positive, pull yours out and take it into a parts shop to directly co m pare it to a std td42/sd33t/p40 clutch disk and pressure plate...

Cheers

[faux40]

When I imported my Marks, it came with a brand-new clutch disk... it's still not installed so I cannot confirm the fit (although I expect that it's correct), but here's what I have for the marks:

IMG_0014.jpeg

To make the part number searchable, the # on the box is "I SD102US" and it shows the Old No as "I SD102"

(and yes, we do have a pinball machine in our house... and I firmly believe that EVERYONE should have a pinball machine in their house! -- it's Firepower II... the first successful multi-ball pinball machine: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=857)

Hope this helps!
John

[G60michael]

Hi All, with faux40 reply with the clutch plate box, the number correlates to suiting a TD42 Y60 Nissan Patrol, 1988-1995, also comes up for a Isuzu too. As limited slip said, the part number faux40 posted, the clutch plate dimentions are the same listed for the P40 MQ PATROL, however a different number but the same dimentions and spline count so couldn't see why it wouldn't work and limited slip can confirm his is working fine.

Cheers

[Peter60]

Thanks for the responses.

The specifications of the G60 Clutch Plate is 275mm diameter, 10 Teeth and 35.25mm spline OD (275 x 10T x 32.25).

The Mark’s spec refers to a R10767W clutch plate which equates to a NISSAN PATROL GQ CLUTCH PLATE TB42 PETROL ENG (from Google search).

And as G60Michael , LimitedSlip and faux40 have said it looks like the clutch plate for the Mark’s 5 speed gearbox is 275 x 24T x 25.5 and there are a number of Nissan Clutch plates that meet this specification.

HOWEVER I am wondering instead of buying a G60 clutch kit which comes with plate, drive plate, bearing etc and then purchase a correct clutch plate could I just purchase some other Nissan Clutch kit?

See the table below. These are OZ manufacturers that I could find that provided a catalogue based on Brand/Model etc.

And just as a warning there seems to be numerous errors in these lookup catalogues

Clutch Specs.jpg

So I am wondering if I could just purchase a clutch kit R312NHD that would give me a new pressure plate and the correct drive plate as well.

There is absolutely no detail on the pressure plate. Nothing about size, bolt pattern etc. The images displayed can not be relied on.

From what I can work out the clutch pressure plates differ in the amount of pressure they apply to the drive plate. The more HP in the engine the stronger the pressure plate fingers are.

I have emailed the manufacturers but at this time of year a response may be weeks away.

What do you think??

Does a clutch pressure plate for another Nissan engine bolt up to a G60 P engine.

What about the bearing?

And finally the spigot bearing?

[G60michael]

Hi Pete, you can buy just a new clutch disc separately mate.

Ideally it Would be best to remove your old clutch, double check the measurements and spline count match what we all have come up with from our research, and Reuse your old pressure plate ? I recently fitted a Clutch industries Clutch to my 74' G60 Tub Ute with the Original 3 Speed, Brand New Pressure Plate, Disc, Throw out bearing ect.

I got a Price from a local Exedy distributor as well at the same time, apparently they no longer did a complete kit with new pressure plate, but they could rebuild my old pressure plate for a Price, but Depending on how much work was needed and what/if needed to be Replaced during the rebuild would determine the Final Rebuild Cost, bit of a "How Long is a Bit of string" Scenario and most would like a Ball Park Figure to budget for, so I decided to Go the Clutch Industries Brand new Kit, and that way I also got to keep the old pressure plate aswell incase it's ever needed.

As for the Other Bits mate such as Throw out bearing and spigot, I know you can also buy these individually if need be.

With the Spigot mate, Get an Exedy one listed for the G60, another great thing to note, the same Spigot bushing also Fitted Several models of old Valliant's/Chargers.

Hope this is of use mate, Cheers G60mick

[Peter60]

Well, its time to replace my G60’s clutch.

I’m heading off on a 2,500km trip to Lightning Ridge at the end of May 2022 (for more information see Outings) and the clutch is my weak point.

After spending a heck of a lot of time of trying to work out if there is a suitable clutch plate and pressure plate combination for my G60 and Marks gearbox combination, I have totally given up researching. There is not enough detail out there to make a correct decision. On top of that some of the information is absolutely incorrect!

So I decided to just buy a G60 pressure plate and separately buy the clutch plate to match the Marks spline (275 x 24T x 25.5). And of course, a spigot bearing and release bearing.

I placed orders in early May with allpartsautomotive.com.au. They were the only place I could find who had the Marks specified clutch plate R10767W and the pressure plate listed separately. All in stock and delivery in a few days.

So I set about removing the old clutch.

POWERTRAIN REMOVAL

The manuals (and forum advice) said “pull the whole powertrain - engine, clutch housing, gearbox and transfer case out in one”. This does seem extreme and perhaps the recommendation was made in the days when car hoists and gearbox jacks were not common place. As I didn’t have either I thought I’d do it that way anyway.

The removal is pretty slick as the G60 has been designed for the removal to be undertaken in one. Disconnect electricals each side of the grill, take grill and radiator out as one, disconnect bits and pieces and haul the powertrain out.

Just a tip for Marks gearbox owners – to remove the gearshift you need to unscrew the thing holding it in.

IMG_9026.jpg

About 30 hours later job done! (I may not be the most efficient worker!). Powertrain on the shed floor.

I did have a few problems with the removal. I didn’t see and therefore didn’t disconnect the earth cable from the chassis to the starter motor! This is a fairly solid cable and I wondered why I couldn’t roll the G60 back! Using a winch, I finally moved the car backwards (and broke/snapped the earth cable). Enough said!

IMG_8990.jpg

CLUTCH REMOVAL

I pulled off the gearbox/transfer to expose the clutch housing. The housing was full of grease and oil.

The grease was there from 45 years of mechanics over-greasing the clutch lube points. These are the two nipples on the clutch yoke release mechanism. They must only need a TINY amount of grease, any more and it goes directly into the clutch housing.

The oil looks like it comes from the engine – main seal or just oil leaks. It was just sitting at the bottom of the clutch housing but wasn’t too bad. I had fixed a couple of engine leaks and decided to take no further action.

I removed the bearing, plates etc and also the flywheel.

The pressure plate had the three fingers ‘buttons’ unevenly worn.

IMG_9024.jpg

IMG_9025.jpg

The clutch plate looked good (no oil/grease) along with the release bearing and spigot.

ACQUIRNG A SPIGOT

I decided to replace the spigot.

Because of the Marks gearbox I needed a non standard G60 spigot.

I removed the existing spigot (using the wet paper trick) and found my spigot was 32mm long!
Standard G60 spigot ID 19mm OD 23.8mm L 22.2mm or maybe 25.5mm (3/4” x 15/16” x ??”)
Marks spigot ID 16mm

Of course, there were nothing in Australia the correct size. For the standard spigot search eBay part no ASB515.

So I had one machined by a mate of a mate. His advice was 32mm was too long and it would make aligning everything more difficult. ID 16mm OD 23.8mm L 25mm. Cost $50. Other places weren’t interested in talking to me.

He also made up a tool for me to hit the spigot in (worth its weight in gold!).

IMG_9028.jpg

ACQUIRNG A PRESSURE PLATE

I definitely needed a new pressure plate. Unfortunately, the supplier I order one let me down. They were out of stock. The clutch plate and release bearing were shipped and received.

Well, I thought – there are plenty on eBay for the complete kit – I was getting desperate as I wanted all this done well in advance of my trip.

Ordered and paid for one (about $800). eBay listing had 5 is stock. Nope - out of stock. Ordered another. Same thing. I just lost two weeks!

I then tried to get my pressure plate rebuilt – sure but 6 months waiting list!

I visited my local clutch place. Pretty much the same thing. However, the guy was friendly and understanding. He knew I was desperate. He sent me to a small engineering workshop that used to build clutches 20 plus years ago. I spoke to the guy on the phone. He hasn’t rebuilt clutches for years but yes, since I’m out of options, bring it out…. He thought he had parts (or could make them) and it would be ready in 2 days.

Then on the way home he called. Good news. He had one on the shelf with 20 years of dust.

I picked it up the next day for $385 and left my old one for him to recondition.

FLYWHEEL

While waiting for parts I had the flywheel ground. $100.

I don’t know if it was really necessary but it couldn’t hurt. It was easier enough to get off and on. However take note. The 6 bolt holes appear to not be equally spaced and takes a few flywheel rotations to get it aligned.

CLUTCH REASSEMBLE

All the clutch ( clutch plate and pressure plate) was easier enough to reinstall with a plate alignment tool (19mm x 24Tooth). Getting the release bearing in and set up was a bit tricky. There isn’t lots of space and my release bearing sleeve was a bit worn where it rubs against the yoke and its spring retainer wire was a bit stretched. No new ones available. But they worked.

NEW SEALS FOR TRANSFER CASE

I split the gearbox and transfer case. I replaced the output oil seals for the forward and rear drives (ID 50mm OD 73mm W 15mm) on the transfer. The manual shows 3 seals with the third one between the gearbox and transfer. I couldn’t see that- I assume the Marks configuration is different.

DRIVETRAIN REASSEMBLY

I initially tried to reconnect the engine/clutch housing with the gearbox/transfer. That proved too difficult so I split the gearbox and transfer case again.

Getting the gearbox connected to the clutch housing was fairly easy. As was the gearbox and transfer. I cut a new gasket for in-between the gearbox and transfer.

REINSTALLING THE POWERTRAIN

Again, a fairly easy process. It took time and effort to align the engine mounts and gearbox mounts.

A tip about the engine mounts. I removed the two nuts on the top of each engine mount to remove the engine leaving the mounts in place. Then when I tried to get the engine back in, the alignment was impossible. I ended up taking the bolts out from UNDER the mounts, connect the mounts to the engine and then they just slid into place without too much difficulty. I'm sure most mechanics would know that.

Everything else slot into place, was easily to reconnect etc

It was ready to test. The guy who made my spigot said I should start it in gear so the clutch plate doesn’t move. I don’t know about this. Without reconnect the propeller shafts I started it. All worked. I ran through the gears and all good.
I’ve been for a long drive and all very pleasing.

SUMMARY

It took me about 30 hours to remove the powertrain and maybe about 50 to install new clutch and reinstall the powertrain.

All up say 100 hours.

It’s a big job and providing you have the right equipment is is fairly easy to do.

[RiverPatrol]

Excellent step by step! Thank you for this!
And good luck on your trip!