67 Brake parts needed

npca-eze-123 · Post by **npca-eze-123** » Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:40 pm

I just purchased my 67 Patrol with bad brakes....oops

I need wheel cylinders ASAP.

npca-turbodog133 · Post by **npca-turbodog133** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 8:52 am

; Bonnie at the Nissan place in Ok city will have what you need. They have a 800 number also.; ; SALES@nissanautoparts.com

npca-fud · Post by **npca-fud** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:22 am

I will be amazed if they have rear cylinders. Nissan has been NLA on rear cylinders for over 2 years and fronts were NLA last time I checked 6 months ago. But I suppose it is worth a shot.... I am out of stock on wheel cylinders currently but will have more in stock in the near future.

npca-g60joe · Post by **npca-g60joe** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 3:46 pm

You could always get the cylinders sleeved & new pistons, should you run into trouble. Often stainless sleeves and pistons are a far better alternative to OEM stuff, but some OEM are better than others. the Rubber caps can be purchased at most auto parts stores, they have many generic sizes. if you have the cylinder manufacturer and part numbers, it makes it easier for them to get an exact match. I have a lathe so I made new pistons and sleeves- at the same time I changed the cylinders diameters to make the pedal travel and bias much better for my driving style. for those interested in the fluid dynamics, i also have a tilton adjustable bias in the cab- perfect for steep descents!Before you put in new cylinders, don't forget to bleed the system completely, clean the lines out THOROUGHLY with acetone and compressed air,make sure they are dry completely before assembly. and if you're gonna dunk it in the mud or submerge the axles often, use silicone brake fluid - I use HKS or Castrol SRF. do not mix silicone fluid with normal brake fluid ever!Some people say drum brakes are no good, but if that were the case, why do trucks still use them?the surface area under friction contact on a drum is far greater than a disc brake, and when set up correctly, work better than discs. Water is a big downside though, and most of us with stock G60's would know this from experience heheh...Good luck with the parts - you can always import them from Oz if youre desperate for OEM.

npca-riverpatrol · Post by **npca-riverpatrol** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 5:05 pm

I've often thought that the wheel cylinders would be re-buildable, but I don't know enough about honing and sleeves and diameters, etc. I'd be afraid that if I took them to someone that isn't familiar with them they'll just look at me funny when I tell what kind of truck they're for. But, we here stateside need a simple solution. Just about every Patrol that is newly purchased has been sitting for years, and the first thing they need is wheel cylinders. It may be mechanically sound, but you can't drive it with no brakes. I have a couple buckets full of old cylinders that have come with old trucks, but I can't bear to throw them away just hoping that I can find the re-build solution. Now, G60Joe, you obviously are very knowledgeable in the art of re-building these beasties. Can you provide those of us who are a bit more ignorant of the art with some specific details, or maybe some information we could take to someone who might be able to do it for us. Too long we have suffered with the wheel cylinder dilemma. Let's get something down that everyone can refer to when the case arises. As for importing from down-under: I have heard in the past that it is a bit difficult. Something about Nissan not liking you to ship to us. But, if that is not the case turn us on to some suppliers. There are things that I need for my trucks that I cannot find here.

npca-g60joe · Post by **npca-g60joe** » Tue Oct 26, 2004 6:18 pm

I will put an article in the Patrol Information for you all later this week about how-to do the wheel cylinders yourself. I'll include all the details. i'm just flat out with work at the mo and cant do any pics... gimme a couple days!but as a quickie.... you can hone a cylinder if it isn't too pitted. to stop pitting completely, you should use silicon fluid- it has a zero moisture absorption rate, unlike normal fluids.

npca-riverpatrol · Post by **npca-riverpatrol** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 11:23 am

I will be anxiously waiting. I have several cylinders that I can practice on Maybe I'll finally be able to actually put them to use.

npca-fud · Post by **npca-fud** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 12:12 pm

This is actually very simple Leslie...unless you are making your own pistons. And even then it is simple if you have a lathe and know how to use it. Go to any auto store, Napa for me here in Wyoming. Pick up a brake cylinder hone. Pretty cheap and they come in a variety of sizes plus ones that can be used on mutiple sizes. Use the hone to clean out the bore on the old cylinder. it will remove pitting but deep pitting and you really should just toss the cylinder. Old pistons will work fine if not damaged, use new cups though. And last I checked Nissan still had cups for the pistons. As long as you don't hone out to much material a stock cup will work fine. This is all doable and easy. The main prob you will have in rebuilding old cylinders is the outer boot. Can't get it from Nissan and it is often trashed. For a lightly pitted old cylinder I say go for the rebuild. For a badly pitted cylinder I say replace it with an aftermarket one. Sure you can bore out the cylinder and sleeve it, then use a larger piston but that sounds like a lot of work to re-use a part that only costs $55 to replace. And the aftermarket cylinders are not that much lower in quality than a Nissan one, especially comparing a new aftermarket cyl. to a 40 year old Nissan one! Aftermarket cyl are available in both alloy and cast iron so you have a choice there. At $55 which I sell them for it is cheaper than a Nissan cyl. which you can't get anymore anyways. I say be happy you can get new cyl at all be it Nissan or aftermarket! The problem I encounter is people have no patients when it comes to Patrol parts...the vehicles is rare, obscure and parts not readily available. So it takes time and patients to get parts like wheel cylinders. If I could afford to stock 50 cyl at all times I would but I can't and I don't. I get them in every order I place though and at this point do my best to supply the cyl to people who need them. Last order of cyl was enough fro 4 trucks and they sold out in under a week. It is a bummer Nissan stopped making cyl but at least some are available and it is not my fault they sell out so fast when I get them in!! I also have a big box of used cylinders. Some of them are worthy of a rebuild but most are not worth the time. Sooner or latter I plan to rebuild the good ones and toss the bad ones....hate to toss out vintage parts but they are worthless so why not toss them!? And really for daily driving the aftermarket cylnders work just fine. They even work good for lot's of off-roading but you may have to replace a $55 cylinder every few years if you play in mud/water and don't do a lot of maintenance to the brakes. Big deal...$55 is nothing really, IMHO. He is right about brake drums being better than disc due to braking surface. But, drums need adjustment more and get trashed easier by water and mud. Discs won't have probs in mud so really the disc in front conversion is a good one for anyone who does a lot of off-roading. otherwise i don't see a point in a disc conversion. Good drums will stop you great on the road, you simply have to keep them in good condition.

npca-riverpatrol · Post by **npca-riverpatrol** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 8:08 pm

What size brake cylinder hone? Or is there only one size that will fit? I don't have a lathe, and I sure like the idea of new sleeves and pistons. What are the dimensions of the sleeve and the piston? I certainly wouldn't trust the brakes on my vehicle if I don't know that the tolerances are right. I would think that if I'm honing out even slight pitting, that old piston will be a might bit sloppy in that hole. I'd be afraid if I have to jamb on the brakes hard everything will just come puking out of the cylinder. No outer boot sounds like a problem. Is there something compatible that can be used? I'm a dummy, but I learn quick. I'm one of those raries that can RTFM and understand it. But I won't blunder through something and expect positive result. I want instructions!

npca-fud · Post by **npca-fud** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:06 pm

I don't recall cylinder bore asize atm. It is around 1 inch. You are right you can't hone to much out but a little is ok. Hence the toss the old junk cyl comment! Knowing you Leslie your box of cyl is large. So take a few to the auto store and get a hone that way. Give it a try on the rebuilding on some decent cyl. See if you like the idea or not. Also pick up a micrometer (sp?). Tool used for measuring all kinds of things. Inside and outside bearing diameters, shafts on axels and trannies, wheel cylinder bores, sheet metal thickness and more! The run about $60 and up but it is a required tool in a resto. You need it to see what the tolerances are for parts. By using a manual and the micrometer you then can check what is bad and what is good in the entire truck during a rebuild. A small lathe is fairly cheap. You can use it on the small stuff like custom pistons but bigger stuff won't work on a small hobby lathe such as tranny shafts. I don't have a use for a lathe unless it it full sized and then they are lots of cash, even for used ones.