60Patrol

MadTripper wrote:When I had to pull the drums from Plow Patrol, I believe I used anti-seize on the surfaces before I put it back together. Just a thought.

definitely do this..

Anti-seize.......just the excuse I need to quit today!

All parts look good....now they are cleaned up. There was a slight pinhole in the piston cover and I think that could have let a bit of moisture in and formed a deposit and old brake fluid....golden stains in cyl and on piston. I used 400 wet and dry with alcohol as the liquid. It cleaned up so nice, I did the other "fore" cylinder too. I measure tolerances and cyl walls are 1" or less. Dont mix up the cylinders. The bleeder screws were screwed up and clogged also but soaking and compressed air cleared it.





I found some interesting rubber parts that I received from a lot of parts I purchased.

These are Miyako piston cups and cylinder covers on the left....Nissan/Nabco on right. They came as a kit Miyako #KW-56029 W/C Cup Kit S715. The cover had embossed, MIYAKO WB-01085 0-24. The piston cups had MIYAGO A20 (another one said A13) WC-01195 1H. I tried to put on a cover and it is tight but would seal. They are tall so I could see them possibly riding high and being touched by the brake shoe...maybe wear a bit. I think this PO was pretty bright and can see he used one of the piston cups from the kit. They are the thing that fits almost if not exact.
The Nabco cyl cover says NABCO 41134-30100. The piston cups say NABCO Seiken 1H 628.... (oddly these last three digits run wild between the 7-cups I have : # 628, 127, 542, 519, 563, 544, 588).

Awesome stuff. Thanks for detailing it with pictures. Everything looks nice and clean now, it should seal well. You can try and keep the bleeders from clogging by getting some vacuum caps from the parts store and covering them with the caps.

As an alternative to 400 wet dry I usually use a Scotchbrite pad and some brake fluid.

This is a great how-to for everyone, especially people that aren't familiar with taking the cylinders apart. Makes it much less scary. Maybe you could post the how-to in the Brakes section?

RiverPatrol wrote: This is a great how-to for everyone, especially people that aren't familiar with taking the cylinders apart. Makes it much less scary. Maybe you could post the how-to in the Brakes section?

X2

Excellent pictures Dave. We can even smell the fluid!

While you're at it, is there any notable difference between the Nabco seals and the Miyago? Can they be interchangeable?

The wheel cylinders where manufactured by either Nabco or Tokico according to the manuals. Is there any marks on yours than can help identify each?

I have always dealt with Tokico, with Seiken being the seal manufacturer.

And not to bash Toyota fans, but their wheel cylinders were notorious for seizing. Different metal combinations, I guess.

The Miyago piston cups look the same. The cover it taller and a bit tight. but will work. My wheel cyls are Nabco.

Anything generic or althernative for anti-seize?
Esteban,
Here is a shot of the Nabco brand before removal.

I guess you are referring to a generic antiseize since you're avoiding going to the store at the moment. A little smear of chassis grease will work.

I'm going to take a look at my wheel cylinders. They could be Nabco as well. I've never paid attention.

Clear pictures as always!

Well, I checked some photos of the last time that I cleaned my front wheel brakes. Guess what, they're Nabco too.

No need to post that picture here. Anyway, a good reminder that I need to inspect again, and clean all my brakes.

Anyone ever use a reverse bleeder kit?
It seems I will do this a few times in the next two years so noticed some bleeder kits with gauges and suction types but it seems pushing the fluid up from the bleeder screw to the reservoir is smarter and direct.

bosque wrote:Anyone ever use a reverse bleeder kit?
It seems I will do this a few times in the next two years so noticed some bleeder kits with gauges and suction types but it seems pushing the fluid up from the bleeder screw to the reservoir is smarter and direct.

You don't want to push fluid from the bleeder to the reservoir. You'll pick up all the dirt in the bleeder, cylinder and lines and deposit it in the reservoir, just to have it cycle back into the brakes lines. It is never done that way. Gravity is going to assist you bleeding the brakes at the bleeder, even with the vacuum system. You will have to refill the reservoir several times, sometimes 2 or three times per cylinder, so make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. I buy it by the gallon.