Bosque 67 Patrol

[Esteban]

Sorry to hear about the drum. Could the broken piece acting there could have caused the leak?

By the way, the video is really nice and enjoyable. Beautiful background that blends with your Patrol perfectly. Loved the dust left by the Patrol, and by your dog chasing it.

[bosque]

I have excuses for not getting after it today but they are too lame so....I was just lazy. Got some shots here. Any tips for the drum removal welcome.

[RiverPatrol]

Well, the good news is that the chunk out of the drum wouldn't have affected your braking, so that narrows down your issue to wheel cylinders. That chunk from the drum isn't part of the friction surface against the shoe.

Have you backed off both of the adjusters before attempting to remove the drum? Are you are able to spin the drum by hand? If not, then the adjusters are set too tight. Once you get them free enough where you can spin the drum by hand you should be able to work it off. Work it off little by little working one side then the other.

Oh yeah, make sure there isn't a screw holding the drum on too.

[miksum56]

Spray with liquid wrench nite before. Put lug nuts back on just till flush with end of studs. Give em a good rap with a 2 0r 3 lb single jack and a chunck of hard wood. You are trying to loosen the rust around the studs where they meet the drum. Your drums do not have the screws (pic 1) River mentioned. I then use a flat nail pry bar and afore mentioned hammer and wood. I slit it behind drum and "whap". Turn 180 degrees and Whap. Then quarter turn and so on. Hope this helps. I had a Suzuki LJ 10 that this method failed. Took a oxy\act torch and heated then up very carefully. Good luck!

[bosque]

Thanks a bunch. These tips will be employed after my second beerstein of coffee.
I did not think the edge would touch either so knew it is unrelated to the pulling. This would be a breeze for anyone who has gotten into these before. I will prevail.....after coffee!
Mike, I love to whap

[bosque]

Very solid whap with the edge of a piece of angle iron. I was concerned with chipping the edge but the weight of the hammer and the beefyness of the drum said "hit me".

I think the combo is very important.....
1. Back out 2- adjusters counterclockwise. I could feel the wheel loosest when I backed off almost to the end.
2. Knock the rust loose with a hammer and a beater block on edge so your hitting endgrain. Do this everywhere and watch crap drop out the bottom. This was locking it in.
3. Spray oil into the lug stud holes.
4. Let the hard solid tapping & turning begin.


The drum seems way fine in terms of meat and is smooth so real happy. The oil leak means the right/rearward cyl is unsealed.
Everything else looks tops to me.

[Esteban]

Good description and photos combined. I've been doing your method for a long time. I normally use a chisel, but on its side.

This portion of your post should be moved into the technical stuff as a sticky. Maybe after you do the seal change on the brake cylinder

[Swerve]

I use same method, but my drill bits chuck key and a 4lb hammer

[bosque]

This really is Mikesums break down numbered so thanks to Mike. The photo shows the angle perpendicular to drum edge only because I was able to shove it there to get the shot. I tried a bar flat and hit the bar but it was not a dead enough blow....whatever it takes right?
I think I'll steal one from the 62 and get this puppy rollin'. The Wheeler Crest behind my house was melting off snow like crazy and right now we have had a few days more up above 8500 ft. It makes for an adventurous ride cause there are some creeks and washes to cross....not too deep just novel. I was getting set to go when the brake failed so I'll be ready soon.

[MadTripper]

When I had to pull the drums from Plow Patrol, I believe I used anti-seize on the surfaces before I put it back together. Just a thought.