60Patrol

Actually, I think it could start and run even with no juice to the fuse box. The battery connects directly to the starter. The current from the voltage regulator joins at the top of the fuse box, so even if the box isn't hot you may still have a connection where the two big gauge wires connect at the top of the fuse box. This big gauge wire goes to the ammeter, which then powers the coil via the ignition switch. It would be a very strange situation, but I can almost see it working. Maybe it was intentionally designed that way?

miller wrote:
Might not hurt to pull that fuse block and give it a good scrub. I found so many on my electrical gremlins are caused by bad/dirty connections or bad earths.

Miller......Ron,
Good call. I would have done this first thing before anything mostly because that would be the extent of my electrical knowledge.....clean contacts.
Great shots Andrew. It shows how our Patrols can survive a mud bath, get cleaned up and be good to go.....well, I hope so anyway! I'll bet the new contacts will do the trick too.

Andrew wrote:I got the cable at Knechts. It is ATP brand part number Y-872. Here is a link to one on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Y-872-Speedom ... B000C8TBL4

Andrew,
Found that the length of the speedometer cable is 80" (2032mm). Was it a good fit, or you end up with some added slack?

By the way, terrific find.

This one for RiverPatrol: will it work with pre-1968 speedometers? I know the speedometers changed, and I recall that the cable too. This just to avoid some trouble for owners of earlier Patrols.

Esteban wrote:

Andrew wrote: This one for RiverPatrol: will it work with pre-1968 speedometers? I know the speedometers changed, and I recall that the cable too. This just to avoid some trouble for owners of earlier Patrols.

The fitting on the back of the speedometer changed mid '65, so this cable should work on the speedos after mid '65. I just went through this with the Poster Child.

RiverPatrol wrote:Actually, I think it could start and run even with no juice to the fuse box. The battery connects directly to the starter. The current from the voltage regulator joins at the top of the fuse box, so even if the box isn't hot you may still have a connection where the two big gauge wires connect at the top of the fuse box. This big gauge wire goes to the ammeter, which then powers the coil via the ignition switch. It would be a very strange situation, but I can almost see it working. Maybe it was intentionally designed that way?

Well that's true, but the first top terminal has to have voltage. This is where the harness gets its voltage from the battery + on the starter. Andrew said he had no power at any top terminal, but he checked it again today and he does. The corrosion was giving him a bad reading. what we have found so far on the fuse box is, top terminal 2nd fuse wire has battery voltage, but none at the fuse. Connector is bad! We temporarily ran a jumper wire from battery to bottom post of 2nd fuse terminal. We now have voltage to the headlamp wire at the fuse box, but still no headlights. He then checked for battery voltage at the headlamp switch (red wire from 2nd fuse) and no voltage. Looks like we have a broken wire from fuse box. So right now we have 2 problems, bad connector at headlamp fuse, and bad wire from fuse to headlamp switch. WWWHHHHHEEEEEEEW! Hopefully that's all!

Esteban wrote: Andrew,
Found that the length of the speedometer cable is 80" (2032mm). Was it a good fit, or you end up with some added slack?

There was some extra slack. It could probably be a little shorter. I know there are a few more shorter sizes for this cable.

I put in the new fuse block today. It didn't change much. I'm getting better readings but still no headlights. I will have to change the wire from the second power out to the switch. Also, I need to figure out how to make the fifth power in touch the fourth and sixth. (see photo of old box)

Well it may not seem like it has changed much, but believe me it has. It has prevented a lot of trouble down the road. Make two short jumper wires and screw them between the 4th, 5th, and 6th terminals. Do you still not have battery voltage at the headlamp switch? If not, just run a new wire from the bottom of the second fuse two the switch. This should correct the headlamp issue. At least the power issue to the switch.

We have high beams! No low beams yet. I am going to run a new wire for the low beams tomorrow and hopefully this does the trick. Had to change out the switch on the floor.

Huge thanks to Ron (2869ral) for all the help so far! He has helped with parts numbers, showing me how to test different issues and ultimately figuring out what was wrong. He basically talked me through the whole process. Thanks again!

You are welcome, i love doing this stuff! Did the DS115 dimmer switch fit? Bolt holes were good?