60Patrol

jwgreen wrote:

plateaucal wrote:Doubled up lock washers... hmm. The local hardware stores sell something called a "machine washer" or some such thing. Check the small bins.

After being publicly humiliated and shammed by plateaucal for doubling up on the lock washers, I can confirm that there is a better option. I was using a SAE 3/8" flat washer but it was too big on the O.D., so when I went to the bolt supply house they offered me a 10mm SAE which fit just perfectly so that it does not stick out from the housing.

Thanks plateaucal for the public shamming force me to do the right thing.......

jwgreen wrote: Thanks plateaucal for the public shaming force me to do the right thing.......

Hey, if he hadn't, I would have....

I strongly recommend that all Patrollers and other assorted wrenching types own this book;

https://www.amazon.com/Machinerys-Handb ... 0831130911

In english

plateaucal wrote:In english

Except for Esteban and our other South American brothers.

I have no idea why I keep getting Spanish Amazon links.

Ok a little electrical wiring help here.

My temp gauge in the key off position is pegged to the high side (I understand this is normal) but when I turn the key to run it does nothing and doesn't track the temp at all.
Things I checked

1. Wiring to and from sender. Checked Good
2. Wiring to and from regulator. Checked Good
3. +/- 9v from regulator. Checked Good
4. Grounds, grounds, grounds..all the stock ones and a couple extras. Checked Good

Still nothing from the gauge. Any suggestions?

P.S. the oil pressure gauge doesn't track either so I'm sure it's a wiring issue somewhere but I just can't figure out where!!

The gauge is just an inductor- unhook the sender and the 9v source, and place an ohmmeter across the two gauge leads- Any resistance? Should read about 30-40ish ohms.

If it shows open (infinite resistance) than your little coil wire on the gauge is probably broken. If it shows really low resistance, then the insulating paint on the wire has probably rubbed off, allowing current to jump the coil.

also, make sure your 9v source is going to the terminal marked "I" (I for ignition) the sender plugs into the unmarked terminal

moore_rb wrote:The gauge is just an inductor- unhook the sender and the 9v source, and place an ohmmeter across the two gauge leads- Any resistance? Should read about 30-40ish ohms.

If it shows open (infinite resistance) than your little coil wire on the gauge is probably broken. If it shows really low resistance, then the insulating paint on the wire has probably rubbed off, allowing current to jump the coil.

also, make sure your 9v source is going to the terminal marked "I" (I for ignition) the sender plugs into the unmarked terminal

32 ohms across the terminals
I couldn't see a "I" on either terminal so I swapped them around to no avail.
Checked cold ohms on the temp sensor 362ish.

Still stays pegged to the high side and doesn't react at all to switching power on or the water temperature rising.


Do you know if the "I" terminal is the top one or the bottom one?

On another note I need some clutch advise.

So when I depress the clutch about half way it works perfectly. But when I depress it all the way to the floor it sounds like two pieces of metal are hitting each other and the clutch stops working. Is this a adjustment issue with the pedal, slave and master cylinders? Or an issue with how the clutch assembly is adjusted and or do I need a new clutch??

Hmmm.... I just checked my 2 spare 68-later water temp gauges, and both are pegged to the low side, not the high side....

Your gauges have flat connectors, right? Not screws?

32 ohms on the gauge seems right. 300+ohms on the sender seems high.