60Patrol

rdarnell wrote: Not sure what caused the problem maybe the ignition switch or the amp gauge. That might be the reason that the gauge panel was replaced. The only original pieces were the 2 lights at the top, head light switch and the choke cable.

This exact same thing happened on my Patrol. I chalked it up to the PO's use of what looked like a homemade fuse block combined with zero labels with a healthy dash of my ignorance of what rats nest went where when trying to add/fix some other electrical components. I'm 99% sure it was the ignition switch in my case. Your electrical skills far exceeds where mine were at the time (probably now as well ) and the work to fix it up looks great.

I finished cleaning up the wiring nightmare in the rear of the truck and installed the gas tank.




Finding the correct fuel filler neck hose was a little challenging as it is about 1-7/8 inches and 1-3/4 or 2 inch are easier to find. I was looking through some specs on a parts website and found part number FNH090 from Precision or Spectre. it is about 11 inches long and a couple slight bends on the end but should be workable. The part traces back to a 1980-97 F150.

Tank envy.

Got my sourced 1967 Patrol ignition switch installed but I am waiting on a speedo cable. I bought one on ebay but it was too short. My original speedo was an early type and the replacement dash is a later 1967. I think my truck was actually built in 1966 but stamped and sold as a 1967.


I decided to tackle the center part and see what treasures awaited me. Someone had added a rear heater at some point and and since I removed it I removed that wire also. The dome light and heater were optional items I guess and the power wires are not included in the loom going to the fuse block, but loosely wrapped around it. The red wire was going to a small toggle switch made in USA (probably replacement) but the two wires that go to the dome light were both attached to one side of the switch and the power from the fuse box to the other side. Not sure how connecting the hot and ground were going to work for them?? The dash light was connected to an aftermarket switch also but the ground on one side and the hot to the other side with no power coming from fuse box... maybe they thought it might self generate power??

My wiring was a mess too. People that don't understand wiring should leave it to people who do

Pulled out all the mis-matched wrong fuses and cleaned up the contact points and installed new correct fuses 20, 5, 20 ,5 and 5. Connected a weak battery to the started to fuse box lead and the frame ground near the started. Then added a jumper wire from the ground to the body. No smoke and the fuse block has current.


Next I added a jumper wire to both amp meter leads and the ignition was hot. The next 2 fuses were also powered now.


I turned the key to the on position and checked the last 2 fuses... all good! Decided to test my dash lamp too.

5 amp seems pretty low for the fuses. Usually they are 10s and 20s, I know I'm always out of 10s. This is from the '68 Owner's manual, shouldn't be too different for yours.

I was wondering about that. The wiring diagram from the back of the owners manual was showing what the 5 fuses should be. I guess 1968 got an extra fuse too!


Looks like they added a reverse light for 1968.

The early fuse block is from left to right in photos: Flasher 5A, Wiper 5A, Lights 20A, Stop Light 5A, Head Light 20A. I might up them to 7.5A

Just heard back from Scott his patrol was #7893 so it was an early model 1967 as well. He was parting out a lost mileage running truck to build a crawler I think his name was sjsharpe on here I think if you wish to add the number to the registry. the original engine was sold out of it as well as most of the parts. I reached out to him to see if his truck was an early model or late model 1967 as it seems that somewhere in 1967 they started using a voltage regulator on the gas and water temp gauges. River had a 1967 Patrol #10550 that used a regulator and was pretty sure it had push on spade connectors like the red 1968 gauge cluster I have. Paul told me his 1967 Patrol #07904 did not have a regulator for the gauges. This makes me feel better about connecting my gauges up to my non voltage regulated wiring harness.



I bought the carb, breather, starter, water pump, radiator, rear view mirror, ignition switch and gas cap, seat latches, headlight switch in 2017. Then later in 2019 after he sold the truck he was clearing out some storage and I bought the gauge cluster, steering wheel, another seat latches, pair of outside door handles, rear door latch matched to the ignition switch I bought in 2017, both wiper motors and arms, inspection dash lamp, rear bumper hook and wiring harness (that later turned out to be for a datsun roadster, but I sold it for more that I bought it for). I bought about $1800 in parts from him over that 2 year period and picked up some very nice pieces... I wish he had more stuff to sell!

I found this picture of the fuse box cover. This is from my '66. Looks like they did go with 5 amp fuses on the earlier ones.