60Patrol

I guess that your crankshaft bearings are the correct ones. So the toughest part is taken care.

Side cover Gasket and Timing Gear (front) cover gasket.
I decided years ago to install these covers without the gaskets and rather use silicone. Perfect, modern way to do. Not a leak. Purists, save your comments.

Wick Seal - Crankshaft rear
Can you measure the thickness of the one you have? I can compare that with one that I have from an old set.
The wick seal is suppose to be forced into the grove. I will dig a link on how to proper install it, and post it here.

Seal - Crankshaft front
I guess that the best will be to try to source the correct one, based on the measurements of the old. Try to measure the hole diameter in the cover, as well as the crankshaft diameter.
I'll try to see if I have this seal.

Good luck

Esteban wrote:I decided years ago to install these covers without the gaskets and rather use silicone. Perfect, modern way to do. Not a leak. Purists, save your comments.

I'll save my comments - I know how you love your silicon.

I tend to think the rear main is correct. Esteban is right, it is a VERY tight fit. Like squeezing Fat Albert into 32s. And then after that fight the crank might be a little tight to turn until it seats in well.

Just curious... but is there an engine rebuild kit available from Australia for the 60 series? Would it be compatible with the US 60 series Patrol?

Contact the guy on eBay at Datsun311Parts. He has all the correct seals and gaskets from what I remember. He sent me some wrong ones at first but I emailed him and he sent me all the correct ones. Only one I don't think he has is the front main seal. Mine was wrong too but my engine guy found the correct one somewhere but that was a while ago and I don't recall where.

First, the fun news: My machinist -- Dave at Mother's Machine Shop in Sunny Fair Oaks, CA -- is willing to do the final assembly of the long block in front of the entire family patrol! The kids will get to watch an expert put our engine together without the risk of ME doing the assembly! He's a really good guy! (brave too!)

Now for my gasket dilemma...

I just purchased a new set on Ebay from Datsun311Parts late this afternoon so, hopefully that means that we're good to go! Of course, I did have to take a second mortgage to buy the set! OUCH!

Bruce from Datsun311Parts seems like he knows his stuff -- Of course I was fishing for a partial set with just the pieces that I need at a reduced rate... so I would be able to get those new shoes my kids so dearly need!

Anyway, I thought you might be interested in my back & forth with Bruce from Datsun311Parts about the pieces/parts so here it is in its full, mostly-unedited, glory (or perhaps gory) to make it even more fun!:

Subject: Details about item: Nissan Patrol 60 Series Engine Gasket Set #360506393381
Sent Date: Feb-26-14 11:56:53 PST

Dear schluderm,

Hello,

I'm searching for parts for my '67 Nissan Patrol Engine -- My machinist purchased a set but found that several gaskets are incorrect:
- The rear main seal is too thick to fit into the groove
- The timing cover seal has a much larger ID and seems much lighter weight than the original
- The side cover gasket has a whoop-de-doo at one end that keeps it from fitting
- the front cover gasket doesn't fit (the cover between the block and timing gear box (not the timing cover gasket)

Anyway, I'd like to buy your kit but would like to make sure that it will indeed fit correctly. In your picture of the kit on the listing, the side cover shows that same whoop-de-doo (right side of your pic) that's causing my current gasket to not fit... is there a chance that the picture is "generic" and that the side cover gasket will indeed fit?

Anyway, thanks for helping on this and hopefully your gasket set will solve all my problems!

Thanks,

John

Subject: Re: Details about item: Nissan Patrol 60 Series Engine Gasket Set #360506393381
Sent Date: Feb-26-14 12:23:34 PST

Dear balestrini,

Hello John,
You have good eyes. The set shown is an old stock photo some gaskets like the side gasket are different. One in the pic is actually for a P40. The set we ship is for the Patrol. Oval timing cover gasket and flat ends on the side cover gasket. Crank Seal is mm size 50-72-12, the P40 kits will give you a 56-72-12. Fits in the timing cover but is too large inside and is not very deep either. Our kits also ship with the correct umbrella shaped valve stem seals. All of the gaskets we provide are for the Patrol engine.

Thanks
Bruce

- schluderm

Subject: Re: Details about item: Nissan Patrol 60 Series Engine Gasket Set #360506393381
Sent Date: Feb-26-14 14:09:09 PST

Dear schluderm,

Thanks Bruce,

Well then... that explains a bunch! How much of my gasket set (assuming it's a P40) is usable and how much needs replacement? Would you be willing to put together a "fix a dumb mistake" gasket set so I don't end up with too many spares? I'd prefer to only buy what I actually need if you're willing to help me out with a smaller set.

Thanks!

Subject: Re: Details about item: Nissan Patrol 60 Series Engine Gasket Set #360506393381
Sent Date: Feb-26-14 14:29:55 PST

Dear balestrini,

Hello John,
There are too many gaskets to piece meal that way From our set you will use:
Timing Cover Gasket
Timing Cover Base Housing Gasket
Water Pump Mounting Gasket
Engine Side Cover Gasket
Carb Mounting Insulator
Valve Stem Seals
Crankshaft Front Mail Seal
Crankshaft Rear Main Seals
Exhaust Collector Gasket

We have 2 sets in stock then we have to find more Lots of the Patrol sets we find the old cork gaskets are aged beyond use so we buy some of the P40 sets and that helps fill in where new old stock items have aged beyond use. That's why I'm familiar with the diff on the P40 and Patrol sets. They are in the store if you need a set. All the best.

Bruce

- schluderm

Faux40, that's good news!

In the mean time, I was able to get a hold of some leftovers from a gasket set. Found the wick seal, as well as the crankshaft seal at the timing gear cover.

The seal that I have is like what Bruce mentioned in that chain of emails: ID: 50mm, OD: 72mm, and 12mm thick.

The wick seal, as you'll see in the attached photo, is 7.25mm wide (0.285" or ~ 9/32"), and 13.44mm deep (0.53")
I have two sets, and both are approx. the same. Hope this helps.

Don't sweat about the timing gear gaskets, and use Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.
The following are two good guides that I've saved on how to properly install the wick or rope seal:

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/bobadler-1.htm

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/200 ... tips2.html

This is the front oil seal you need. Don't worry, it says Toyota but in fact it fits just fine in our Patrols.
About the rear oil seal, I had the same problem, it was too thick. In fact I installed forcing it gettting bad results, just some kilometer after, it burns out. The next time I installed it , I took out one of the interior elements I mean the wick is made of many internal stuffs like ropes, so the idea is to take out one or two of them in order to make the wick less thick. Now it works like a charm.

Gaskets, gaskets, seals and ducks... okay, so no ducks...

The full gasket set from Bruce at Datsun311Parts arrived last Saturday and I dropped it off with Dave at Mother's Automotive Machine Shop on Monday -- I took the two youngest Family Patrollers (Barritt and Jay) along; Dave spent some time showing them the shop and explaining the machines. Really cool guy. The other machine shop I went to months ago barely allowed Jay to peek over the counter let alone see the machines!



I got a call from Dave about the rear main seal -- try as he might, it just doesn't want to fit in the groove. I emailed Bruce at Datsun311Parts who called me within 15-minutes even though it was after five in Texas! Bruce says that this is normal and the dang seal is just a pain to install. Here's the "Bruce approved" seal installation method that I'll be sharing with Dave the machinest in the morning. Think of it as a simple, eleven-step seal installation process

1) Place the rope seal in a ziplock back with a big glop of white lithium grease & seal it up (sorry, that pun was intended)
2) Bend the seal in every which way to ease it a bit and get that grease embedded into it
3) If needed to get it started in the groove, use a flat hammer to gently tap it flatter and thin it up a bit
4) Install the seal into the groove as much as possible
5) Next, use a long 1/2" socket extension like a rolling pin to work the seal well into the groove
6) Once it's in as deep as it's going to go, it will start to mash down some into a "T" shape -- this is normal and okay
7) Repeat with the lower seal in the cap. To do this you'll need to clamp the cap in a vice (with soft-jaws please)
8) Once both seals are in tight, use a super sharp razor blade to trim the extra length flush with the block & cap
9) Place a dollop of black RTV silicone on each of the rope-seal ends so they "bond" together when clamped
10) Of course, the bearings will be all lubed and installed and you'll torque down the caps
11) Finally, don't expect the crank to turn by hand even without the pistons being installed! That seal is tight for a reason.

Anyone have any advice on this "simple" 11-step plan?

Wish me luck!

John

John,

Great to hear about the attitude of the guy at the machine shop. This event will leave a long lasting impression in your kids.

Regarding the rear main seal "rope seal", I guess that the opinion of 2869ral is a must here. Hope he chimes in.

I have my doubts about embedding with lithium grease, but I'm not an expert in this field. In one of the links that I posted last week, it mentions:
..According to Fel Pro, a common mistake is soaking the seal in oil before installation. Soaking tends to shred the seal, shortening its life.

Can you measure the cross section of your seal, so I can compare with the one I have, just for information purposes?
Mine, as I posted last week is 7.25mm wide (0.285" or ~ 9/32"), and 13.44mm deep (0.53"). It's from an aftermarket set as well.

Good luck. We will benefit from your experience. Please take pictures of the assembly, if they allow.

That pretty much sounds like how I remember the rear main going in, short the lithium grease. I do remember flattening it with a mallet, and using a socket extension or something similar. I especially remember #11! Thought I'd screwed something up. But it was all good. It sounds like you're on the right track. Should be a #12, or change #1 to: patience. You don't want to find out you rushed this job once it's all back together.