ckhorne's 1967 project

[miksum56]

Good reading and a really lucky old Patrol!

[Coyote Patrol]

Looks very nice. I noticed that the jeep axle has a cap on the ends. This tells me that the axles are probably 2 piece axles. the hub bolts to the axle shaft. These are known to strip, so make sure the axle nut stays tight. They also make 1 piece axle conversions for this.

[Esteban]

For the wiring, I really tried to pay attention to details. All wires are supported. All holes grommetted. All connections soldered and heat shrunk (no crimping here!). When possible, all wires are run through the expandable braid (it's hard to cut that stuff even with a razor blade). In the engine bay, I even put heat shrink over the metal clamps that hold the wires in place.

Excellent tip about the heat shrink over the metal clamps. All your electrical wiring looks great.

Thanks - I was a little concerned I'd be shown the door on the forums for having a Frankenstein Patrol...

Not to worry. We all have done it to some extent.

Great progress and nice work on your Patrol. Please post a picture of the fuel tank. That sounds interesting as well.

[ckhorne]

Looks very nice. I noticed that the jeep axle has a cap on the ends. This tells me that the axles are probably 2 piece axles. the hub bolts to the axle shaft. These are known to strip, so make sure the axle nut stays tight. They also make 1 piece axle conversions for this.

Actually, they were one piece tapered axles. I'm not sure this is better or worse (some guys tell me that the 1 piece axles are known to snap), but that's what's in there now. The frustrating bit about that is that I can't source 6 lug hubs / drums for the Dana 44. I can find 5 to 6 lug adapters, but they're 2" thick, which concerns me. I've just decided to live with 6-lug up front and 5-lug in the rear, with a 5 lug+adapater as a spare. It's wonky, but will work until something snaps.

[moore_rb]

Now that you've returned the rear axle to normal "open" mode, I imagine that broken axles are highly unlikely... I think yours has 30 spline axles if it is out of a CJ5 (just relying on memory here, so might be wrong about that)

One thing you should be careful with are the C-Clips that hold the axles into the ring-gear carrier - always inspect the C clips throughly and replace if they are cracked, or if they are worn thin.

[RiverPatrol]

Excellent write up! This Patrol is so fortunate to have such a conscientious owner as you. You have gone way above and beyond what most people would have done. Very few people would have spent that amount of time and patience on the wiring. You're going to have a very capable Patrol when you are finished.

I would be interested to know a bit more detail about how you wired in the regulator for the gauges. I haven't found a wiring schematic that even includes that piece. I have that problem on 2 Patrols.

[ckhorne]

Excellent write up! This Patrol is so fortunate to have such a conscientious owner as you. You have gone way above and beyond what most people would have done. Very few people would have spent that amount of time and patience on the wiring. You're going to have a very capable Patrol when you are finished.

Thanks for the kind words. This forum has been a fantastic resource, and I'm happy to try to give back what little I can to those who have helped me-

I would be interested to know a bit more detail about how you wired in the regulator for the gauges. I haven't found a wiring schematic that even includes that piece. I have that problem on 2 Patrols.

Sure - I went back and forth on that one (I have some electronics background) and asked another buddy who is also pretty knowledgable on electronics for a second opinion, but in the end, we took an educated guess, and it seemed to work correctly. I'll look tonight and post some details.

I was thinking about creating a new thread with all the information about wiring that I could find. I understand that not everyone wants to re-wire their patrol, but there are tidbits here and there that may be useful for others trying to track down problems...

[ckhorne]

I had a chance to pull out my dash and take a look at what I did with the regulator. Looking at my picture of the regulator, there's a left and right side connector:

regulator.JPG

The left side (red/white in my pic) is the +12v feed. Ground is the connection to the bracket itself. The right side (yellow here) feeds the temp, and gas gauges - the ammeter does not require any supply voltage. The oil pressure gauge requires a solid 12v. The original wiring simply feeds one gauge and then jumps to the next.

I tried testing the output with my multimeter. And then I tried another multimeter. I expected either a solid 12vdc, 5vdc, or something. But it jumps all over the place - from 1v to 12v. I don't have an o-scope handy, but I can only presume it's some kind of pulsed output.

In either case, this seems to work for me. I can't explain it in any more detail than this, but hopefully that's a point of reference...

[RiverPatrol]

That's very understandable, thanks. I know that one wire is daisy chained across the 3 gauges, so the regulator is just inline with the daisy chained wire. Thanks, I think I can make that work.

I'm not real sure about the varied reading from the regulator. If I recall correctly, there is just a single contact inside the regulator.

[ckhorne]

Also- note the grounding strap in that picture. I added this - going from one of the screws holding the gauge in place to a screw in the dash assembly. The dash appears to be grounded by the screws holding it in place, which made testing difficult / nearly impossible. Adding in this grounding strap to give a solid, stable ground to the dash means both easier troubleshooting and less worry about grounding problems in the long run with the gauge cluster.