Greetings from Golden

[norville]

that actually makes more sense.. Pics will help a lot . so the adapter is from the bell to the tranny... Good to know. I was thinking it was a engine to bell, or a new bell.. Pics will help and any info will also help...

[norville]

Oh and I hardly know what I'm talking about I just got a patrol on Friday... so no worries...

[RiverPatrol]

Oh and I hardly know what I'm talking about I just got a patrol on Friday... so no worries...

Who're you trying to kid? Bob may have been on sabbatical from Patrols for a while, but he's an old hat that could teach us all a thing or 2.

You can post pictures right away when you register. Just the first 3 posts have to be approved by a moderator to make sure you're not a spammer. So there's no excuse now.

[bosque]

67-327,
When major engine or tranny needs repair on a Patrol you drop the entire grill/rad and pull the entire mass out together. Same back in so think about this option, it may be easier actually!
The service/engine manual downloads can walk you through the normal procedure which will shed light on your predicament.
The photos will tell a bunch too so cant wait to see your situation.

[67_327]

Okay! Pictures, we got Pictures!!

Note the adapter plate between the bell housing and the trans - the twin sticks for the 4wd attach to this adapter as well. Verrrrryyy snazzy....

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More pics to follow once I get the engine out....

[RiverPatrol]

Thanks! That's a pretty clean setup. They should have taken the extra step of extending the shaft that the twin sticks are on to accommodate for the handbrake linkage. The hole in the footwell makes me cringe a bit.

[67_327]

Yep, I agree - everything I've seen shows the Handbrake lever bolted to the original Nissan bellhousing, something not possible with the chevy truck bellhousing in place on mine. I would like to have some place to attach the lever and then cable it to the e-brakes on the toyota rear end, but I may go the easy route and get a floor mount Lokar lever and hook that up instead.

Below are a couple of pics of the sheet metal inserts for the footwells on the driver and passenger sides - like I said, cut out of washing machine sheet metal, so I think I may redo those and get the heater back in place. Those are some big holes to fill.....

Anyone have a line on replacement floorboards? The passenger side is pretty rusted up by the firewall, so I may just cut and weld and then coat it all with bedliner. We'll see. The big push is to get the 6 cylinder in,, hook up the brakes, and get this thing motating under its own power - I have a replacement wiring harness that I am going to install to speed things up there and make sure I've got good electrics all the way around.

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So, lots to do, but all do-able - I'll be pretty happy when I get it repowered and running and then handle the nits and details after...

More to follow.

Steve - 67_327

[67_327]

Ah - I was just looking at the picture posted by Bosque, that must be a through-shaft going from the e brake lever over to the twin-stick side, then actuating the rod back to the e-brake. Hmm. Would take some engineering for me to do that on this current setup, but someone building a plate/adapter could certainly add that in.. I agree, too bad they didn't go with a shaft all the way across, but then again, the prime objective was met by getting the 327 shoved in there. That must have been a lot of hours getting that all laid out - as I get older, I lose enthusiasm and patience for that kind of thing, and just want to get it done and over with. I miss my youthful enthusiasm.......

Steve

[norville]

Is that adapter horse shoe shaped or just two blocks on either side.. It looks like it's about 2" thick

[RiverPatrol]

Anyone have a line on replacement floorboards? The passenger side is pretty rusted up by the firewall, so I may just cut and weld and then coat it all with bedliner.

Here is a source for a few body panels: Pacol Online . The cost may be the deciding factor to cut and weld instead though.