A better day today.
Got the tranny down and out and finally managed to free the cover plate.
The friction disc wasn’t down to the rivets but it was really glazed.
I’m sure Nissan engineers back in the day set up the Patrol so the clutch could be changed from under the vehicle. Trouble is, when those old engine mounts ‘relax’ and become less pert, the droop at the back end of the engine prevents easy extraction of the cover plate past the big cross member.
I got round this by undoing the aft engine mount top nut and driving in wooden wedges to gain a bit of clearance. That did the job.
It
Clutch replacement
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Re: Clutch replacement
Another full day today. My nephew Nick took on the task of preparing the transmission for a coat of paint.
Scraping, wire brushing and stunning away 52 years of grime.
The final prep was done with a scouring pad and H7 degreaser. The tropical sun and trade winds made short work of drying ready for paint. Just a can job over a base coat of Rustoleum ‘rusty metal’ primer. It took him all day but it was a fine job he did.
I discarded the wooden wedges and used my engine hoist instead to open up access to fit the new friction disc and original cover plate. That worked really well, an essential step if you are backboarding a clutch job!
I made my own alignment tool from some thick dowel I found at home, no special tools available.
It seemed to work well, to the eye the alignment is spot on.
I know, all will be revealed when the tranny is offered up tomorrow.
With the tranny out of the way I also did some preventative ‘Groil’ treatment to the chassis rails while the access was good.
The Ford friction plate does stick out a bit beyond the cover plate. I can’t really see a down side to this.
All the original lock washers were shot, new metric SS lock washers went in for the cover plate bolts.
Might be on the road tomorrow?
Scraping, wire brushing and stunning away 52 years of grime.
The final prep was done with a scouring pad and H7 degreaser. The tropical sun and trade winds made short work of drying ready for paint. Just a can job over a base coat of Rustoleum ‘rusty metal’ primer. It took him all day but it was a fine job he did.
I discarded the wooden wedges and used my engine hoist instead to open up access to fit the new friction disc and original cover plate. That worked really well, an essential step if you are backboarding a clutch job!
I made my own alignment tool from some thick dowel I found at home, no special tools available.
It seemed to work well, to the eye the alignment is spot on.
I know, all will be revealed when the tranny is offered up tomorrow.
With the tranny out of the way I also did some preventative ‘Groil’ treatment to the chassis rails while the access was good.
The Ford friction plate does stick out a bit beyond the cover plate. I can’t really see a down side to this.
All the original lock washers were shot, new metric SS lock washers went in for the cover plate bolts.
Might be on the road tomorrow?
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Re: Clutch replacement
Amazing job and inventiveness!
Good luck tomorrow
Good luck tomorrow
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
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- So, I just bought this Patrol….
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Re: Clutch replacement
Some more pictures.
When using the engine hoist to get clearance I first removed the engine mount top bolts, took the big flat and lock washers out and threaded the bolts back in about 3/8”.
This allowed the back of the engine to come up about 5/8” which is enough to allow free and easy access for the cover plate and friction disc…without popping the back of the engine off its mounts.
Another hot tip when using the slightly wider Ford friction disc.
Alignment becomes a doddle because you can see the oversized disc beyond the cover face plate. I simply used my rough dowel alignment tool to fine tune the friction plate so it protruded equally all around. Easy peasy!
Once aligned simply tighten up the bolts.
Job done.
Ran out of time today so didn’t get the job done, it’s not an easy lump to get into position!
When using the engine hoist to get clearance I first removed the engine mount top bolts, took the big flat and lock washers out and threaded the bolts back in about 3/8”.
This allowed the back of the engine to come up about 5/8” which is enough to allow free and easy access for the cover plate and friction disc…without popping the back of the engine off its mounts.
Another hot tip when using the slightly wider Ford friction disc.
Alignment becomes a doddle because you can see the oversized disc beyond the cover face plate. I simply used my rough dowel alignment tool to fine tune the friction plate so it protruded equally all around. Easy peasy!
Once aligned simply tighten up the bolts.
Job done.
Ran out of time today so didn’t get the job done, it’s not an easy lump to get into position!
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- So, I just bought this Patrol….
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Re: Clutch replacement
The Judge is still out on whether I would do ‘clutch Olympics’ again or just remove the engine and tranny.
I didn’t have ideal equipment, a transmission jack would have saved hours.
It’s in place now after another day battling.
Here’s some observations.
The job can be done with a regular trolley jack and an engine hoist.
With the seats removed the engine hoist really helps once you have the tranny chocked in a good spot.
I took some time to make a plywood board with wedges and chocks screwed into it. This enabled the awkward transmission assembly to sit in one spot and behave itself. I found the centre of gravity by suspending the tranny with the engine hoist, experimenting with different jacking points until I found the balance spot.
This allowed us to roll the tranny under the chassis rails and then gradually raise it up, chocking as you go.
We also had safety lines rigged which were cinched up as we gained altitude.
A 2x6 braced against the flywheel inspection hatch aft to the mid bulkhead works well, the aft cross member is good for the back.
You have to remember that this process is ‘seconds from disaster’, the 4 ropes will save the day and prevent you bending the tranny input shaft when/if the jack slips sideways.
Sounds ok so far?
Hmmm
The clutch release bearing and its 2 shafts demand respect.
It is really easy to dislodge the two as you offer up the tranny.
You have the 3 shiny head cover plate actuation bolts that are are primed to snarl up an off centre release bearing. Once snarled up you are removing the 2 shafts to sort out the snafu.
Not fun, at this point you become a firm advocate of taking the front off and removing engine and tranny to change your clutch.
Older and wiser.
I got a bit frustrated at about 3.30pm today in a sea of chocks and jacks trying to sort out the release bearing BUT all of a sudden it came together and the tranny slid home.
Of course I then realized that the port, lower clutch slave cylinder nut has to be introduced before the whole assembly snugs home!
That’s first job on Sunday.
I think the worst is over?
I didn’t have ideal equipment, a transmission jack would have saved hours.
It’s in place now after another day battling.
Here’s some observations.
The job can be done with a regular trolley jack and an engine hoist.
With the seats removed the engine hoist really helps once you have the tranny chocked in a good spot.
I took some time to make a plywood board with wedges and chocks screwed into it. This enabled the awkward transmission assembly to sit in one spot and behave itself. I found the centre of gravity by suspending the tranny with the engine hoist, experimenting with different jacking points until I found the balance spot.
This allowed us to roll the tranny under the chassis rails and then gradually raise it up, chocking as you go.
We also had safety lines rigged which were cinched up as we gained altitude.
A 2x6 braced against the flywheel inspection hatch aft to the mid bulkhead works well, the aft cross member is good for the back.
You have to remember that this process is ‘seconds from disaster’, the 4 ropes will save the day and prevent you bending the tranny input shaft when/if the jack slips sideways.
Sounds ok so far?
Hmmm
The clutch release bearing and its 2 shafts demand respect.
It is really easy to dislodge the two as you offer up the tranny.
You have the 3 shiny head cover plate actuation bolts that are are primed to snarl up an off centre release bearing. Once snarled up you are removing the 2 shafts to sort out the snafu.
Not fun, at this point you become a firm advocate of taking the front off and removing engine and tranny to change your clutch.
Older and wiser.
I got a bit frustrated at about 3.30pm today in a sea of chocks and jacks trying to sort out the release bearing BUT all of a sudden it came together and the tranny slid home.
Of course I then realized that the port, lower clutch slave cylinder nut has to be introduced before the whole assembly snugs home!
That’s first job on Sunday.
I think the worst is over?
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Re: Clutch replacement
Impressive work! Congratulations!
Sharing your tips and frustrations will definitely help us when facing a clutch or transmission service.
Your pictures are great.
Sharing your tips and frustrations will definitely help us when facing a clutch or transmission service.
Your pictures are great.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
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Re: Clutch replacement
Great write up, thank you! This will certainly help the next person make that same decision. 
Beyond any hope for intervention
