Passenger side wheel won’t spin
Passenger side wheel won’t spin
I just acquired a 1964 patrol that had been in a friend’s family for years has not driven in 25 years passenger wheel won’t spin have jacked the whole front end up Driver spins passenger won’t took the Hub off axle spins, figuring that the brakes are either seized up against the drum. How would I remove? The drum have tried banging it off have tried going in through the two screws that you can remove any advice on getting it off would be great.
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Re: Passenger side wheel won’t spin
Welcome to 60Patrol! 
There are two adjusters on the backing plate. Back both of those adjusters all the way off, then beat the drum with a hammer some more. Lots of Liquid Wrench helps too.
There are two adjusters on the backing plate. Back both of those adjusters all the way off, then beat the drum with a hammer some more. Lots of Liquid Wrench helps too.
Beyond any hope for intervention
Re: Passenger side wheel won’t spin
Thank you I will need to scrape 3 years of fluid off but I will try that
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Re: Passenger side wheel won’t spin
Be gentle with those drums, they sure don't grow on trees!
On my Patrol, the drums had not been removed since the early 1970s, so they didn't come right off even with the adjusters backed off. I ended up cutting two small slots at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock in the backing plate dust/water shield (see picture below) to allow a large diameter brass drift to bear directly onto the edge of the drum. Using a hammer on the drift, hit the drum four or five times, rotate drum some (maybe 20 degrees), and hit it four or five more times. Keep repeating this until the drum starts moving. Remember that you are not trying to beat the h**l out of the drum, just persuade it to start moving. There is a fit between the drum and the hub, so spraying some of your favorite type of rust dissolver/penetrant around the center of the drum every day for a week
may help (turn the drum some each time you spray, since the penetrant will naturally move downward, and tap with a bammer all the way around the drum near the center hole each time you spray to shock the penetrant into the crevice). Also applying some heat using a propane or MAPP gas torch around the drum near the center hole will help too. Mine finally came off, and the access slots cut into the backing plate dust/water shield was probably the best thing I did to persuade them off.
Here is a pic of the inside of the drum, showing the fit to the hub:
On my Patrol, the drums had not been removed since the early 1970s, so they didn't come right off even with the adjusters backed off. I ended up cutting two small slots at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock in the backing plate dust/water shield (see picture below) to allow a large diameter brass drift to bear directly onto the edge of the drum. Using a hammer on the drift, hit the drum four or five times, rotate drum some (maybe 20 degrees), and hit it four or five more times. Keep repeating this until the drum starts moving. Remember that you are not trying to beat the h**l out of the drum, just persuade it to start moving. There is a fit between the drum and the hub, so spraying some of your favorite type of rust dissolver/penetrant around the center of the drum every day for a week
may help (turn the drum some each time you spray, since the penetrant will naturally move downward, and tap with a bammer all the way around the drum near the center hole each time you spray to shock the penetrant into the crevice). Also applying some heat using a propane or MAPP gas torch around the drum near the center hole will help too. Mine finally came off, and the access slots cut into the backing plate dust/water shield was probably the best thing I did to persuade them off. Here is a pic of the inside of the drum, showing the fit to the hub:
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Paul