Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

[Esteban]

Congratulations! Massive repair work you’ve undertaken.


Esteban

[RiverPatrol]

Wow. Just. Wow. Uh-mazing work. Anyone else would have given up a long time ago.

[mad4hws]

..... Anyone else would have given up a long time ago.

If I was smart, I would have. But, I'm stubborn.

Tonight I found the house empty and I was motivated to do some work on the Minion Missle. I fashioned some replacement panels for the Pax side footwell. I have some cage nuts to weld in place and then I'm going to hand this off to #1 daughter to weld into place (she's a much better welder than her old man)


Next up, I need to replace the internal nut assembly for the door hinges. Somehow, the lower hinge on the pax side was attached without this being there? The top side also needs to be replaced because I broke the bolts off when I took off the hinge - totally my fault.


Once I get the new hinge nuts in-place, there's some structural work to do with the actual pillar as it has completely rusted through

[KyleAnschuetz]

Mad 4,

I bought the patrol firewall panels from Troa, and they just don’t work. I think you are better off doing what you are doing. If you really want to try the troa parts I have them, but you’ll regret your life choices until you give up on them…

Their floor pan and fenders are usable, but I can’t recommend their other products. I’m still waiting on a 69+ firewall to complete my project vehicle.

-Kyle

[RiverPatrol]

While the Troa panels are a nice idea they are designed for later Patrols in the '70s. They look similar but when you try to get them to fit you discover the differences in design in the later years. Even on the US Patrols there were subtle changes over the less than a decade they came in.

[KyleAnschuetz]

From the panels and parts I received from Troa. The issues had to do with poor quality of bends. They also had slight variances as they were obviously based off later patrols per River’s comment. The fenders are good enough to use, but bolt hole spacing was off, and the floor section was usable with modifications, but the torpedo pillars, rear panels for the tub and the part of the tub the door latches near was very poorly made. Breaks were not 90, pieces were warped before heat was applied to tack them in place, and they were off in size. Some of the issues could be addressed, but those parts were almost all tossed.

I will repeat however that fenders and floor pans (or center sections) are usable with modifications. If you are thinking about ordering from them, verify that the parts are quality and that they work prior to payment or them being shipped. Ask for pictures with tape measure showing specs and an identifier on the panel that will be there at receipt, have angles checked.

Sorry for the hijack on the thread Mad4 I wanted to explain my post some more in case it is found during searches later.

I am looking forward to your next update!!

[Lonelydriver]

I spoke to Troa recently and they stopped production of Patrol panels. Sorry for the highjack just wanted to inform the others.

[mad4hws]

Hi everyone. I hope all are having a great holiday season. I'm working on the Patrol a little today - my goal is to finally stop the oil leaking from the rear output shaft. A few weeks ago, I replaced the seal, but oil continued to leak out. It does not look like the seal is working as it should and the leak is coming from the outputshaft itself. I didn't take a picture of it, but there was oil around the threads on the Cage nut securing the parking brake to the output shaft. Does anyone have any recommendations for me? Or, should I just be resigned to this thing leaking? Hopefully this is a simple fix and a silly question.

Thanks!

[Flaggoni]

I believe the leak is not from the seal. The oil is creeping past the splines. Clean the inner and outer splines, then apply a small bead of silicon sealant to both ends of the output flange before assembly. Securely tighten and cotter-pin the nut.
On the three units I’ve inspected, I’ve found the large nut only finger-tight under the cotter-pin. They all leaked under the nut. Retorque alone would probably cure it, but the sealant is extra insurance.
Mild Bill

[PetrolPatrol]

The last time I used it I had to buy a disposable plastic hudson sprayer to spray it into the frame rails.

That might still be a better option. The individual cans, while really convenient, are expensive (I think $18/can).

I looked at the Easton cans myself but costs (I'm poor af) kept me from going that route. The Hudson sprayer sounds like an excellent alternative though. I'm glad there's people like you guys & gals with so much more knowledge than me - the work here is amazing and allows me to keep mine in almost half decent shape.