1971 Nissan Patrol from Mexico

[SBP78g60]

Looks great mate, I like the plate bracket I'll have to do somethin like that to mount mine, great work

[RiverPatrol]

You're doing a great job improvising with what you've got to work with.

[rrodriguezsal]

Hello Kyle

I sent a PM

Thanks

Raul R

The project has slowly been progressing as i deal with one rust patch after another and the headaches of aftermarket body panels. The Troa body panels really deserve a post of their own, but if you care my gallery has some of my thoughts on the panels (some are better than others).

Back to what is important, updating this amazing board on what I have completed and some of the questionable changes to my Patrol (that really should have gone to the scrap yard.... )

I was very frustrated after removing the rear panels and patching the tub to find out how poorly the Troa rear panels were. I ended up having to cut almost everthing except the stamped portion of the rear. I made a frame out of angle iron and some scrap I had lying around.



Then I filled the gap with mig tack welds until I had a bead and what looked like a reasonable line up. The area was ground down and then hit with primer.



That being taken care of it was time to remount the license plate mount, but the original license plate mount didn`t match my '72 plate. I ended up making my own license plate bracket out of more scrap.




Now I couldn`t find a stock rear light, so I gave up and bought a bunch of after market lights. I think the jeep TJ ones provide a nice look and replace the need for a seperate dedicated license plate light

Tomorrow I will mount the rear lights, and post a picture for some to admire and others to scoff at. The next big issue is to repair the rear doors and get them back into decent shape and mounted. this is a back to front type of project.

I wanted to also provide some updates on rust repairs. Hopefully some of the answers I came up with will help others to save some rust tubs.



This is how I repaired my rusty rear body mounts and tub. The square tubing really does work well for a decent fix and it is very rigid.



This rusted out area was patched with careful grinding and cutting. I used the Troa door jamb, but it was off and the bends were sub par. Do yourself a favor and just use a metal brake to match the part.



Oh and here is front of my Patrol:

[yuke175]

Just ordered some bump stops based on the recommendations here.

On the rear stop you said you had to redrill and tap a hole. Is this in the frame?

Did you get your end links from energy suspension as well? Part number?

[KyleAnschuetz]

Yes I the frame is where I had to drill the hole. I had the remains of a bump stop there, it was just a piece of metal. I think the original hole was slightly off, but I can snap a picture for you.

I`m not sure of what you are referring to with end stops, but if you are referring to the parts that connect the rear sway bars, no they were ordered from either amazon or the local car parts store when I was in Gettysburg. You just need to pull the measurements, but they are a tight fit. I used some jacks to get the parts together.

I`ll get the picture for you

[KyleAnschuetz]

I have a new old hard top coming my way this Saturday. In order to be ready to throw it on the Patrol I need to finish the rust repairs on the tub.


In order to complete the repairs I had to add back a tab that connects the tub to the Troa center section.


Unfortunately I had shut the welder down before and when I turned it back on I forgot the gas, so there is a slight bulge in one area. I had to run a solid pass over the bad tack welds.



The rear seats had to be re-mounted. The silly construction on the plates under the rear seats rotted out the entire section which I replaced with 18 ga steel. I added 1/8" steel backing plates that I will seal weld once I pull the tub out. Then I drilled holes in the 18 ga plate and welded the cage nuts onto the back of the 3/16" plate. This should be enough to keep the seats in place


The only things left on the rear tub is:

- Order new rear lower doors (part of the soft top order from south America)
- Fix the center area on the rear that bolts to the frame (no cage nuts left)
- Seal weld the 3/16" plate mentioned above
- Cut new rubber sections that will go between the hard top and the rear tub.

- at some point it needs blasted/bondo/ and painted, but I figure I will get the rust out of the entire body before I get paint anywhere.

Hopefully Patrol`ing by the end of the year...

[Edgar]

Well done. I may have to follow suite on the rear seat mounts as the tub is quite rusted where the mounts were attached. It is looking great! Keep going.

[RiverPatrol]

Keep up the good work. You'll have it done in no time.

[KyleAnschuetz]

Alright I had a old new hard top coming in this Saturday from Richard. The idea was that I would be ready to bolt the new one on and call it good.

So I started here on Thursday after my neighbor helped me pull the tub.


I patched the holes in the rear bottom of the tub where the rear tire mounts, I won`t be running a spare tire so no need for holes. I also removed the cage nuts that attach the rear to the frame. They were rusted out so I will run nuts for those bolts. I seal welded the pads for the seats as well. Up until recently I thought I was a decent welder. I can weld most things on welding table, but a 5g weld on the frame was a little too much for me. The overhead in a small area was tough but I got the pads seal welded so they should never rust out.

On the front side of the tub there were areas that held water and rusted most the tub out. I removed the rust and created some patch plates.


Next I patched the driver`s side and then the tub was close to being completed



By Friday at 10 pm I thought i was close enough to throw the tub on in the AM with the neighbors help...

[KyleAnschuetz]

So Saturday morning came, and my neighbor showed up at 1 pm, about an hour and half after Richard showed up

That wasn`t the worst thing since Richard was helpful and my body mounts needed reamed out to 1/2". I had to get a new 1/2" drill bit to complete the job. By Sunday I the holes were 1/2 and my neighbor came over and we got the tub on. I had to use a tow strap and jack to get some of the holes to line up:


I have to re-use my old hard top mounts so I replaced the rubber:


when I had the bolts in I realized two things:
1) the rear mounts need a hole cut in the box so I can easily put a nut on them
2) after the doors were installed, the door gaps are off. Meaning that my mounts were off

I have to get the body aligned somehow, and go from there.

My plan is:
1) attach the fenders to the firewall
2) tack weld in my passenger pillar in (I have the troa pillar)
3) unbolt the tub mounts
4) Install the windshield
5) Install the hard top
6) drill the mounts out in the correc position after I get the door spacing correct.


After that the body alignment will be fixed. The only main things left after that will be:

1) fix the Troa center section (needs holes and cage nuts)
2) create new inner fenders (I have 2 67 inner fenders, so I`ll cut one up and create custom ones for the 72
3) Repair the holes in the firewall


So my first questions is:
1)What is the correct door gap for the hard top the passenger side is about 1/16"

2) What is the proper way for the hard top to be installed. My tub has no holes so they will need to be drilled. But I`m not sure where the door should be lined up. After lining the door up the gap looks off at the top. Does the weather stripping line up from top to bottom?


One step forward, 2 steps back?

Hopefully Patroling by the end of the year...