Clutch Slave Cylinder Adjustment

[npca-bigpupss]

I am trying to bring a '67 Patrol back to life.  It is going to need a new rear end-missing rear pinion gear and shaft-but I want to make sure everything possible is god to go before I put the money into a new rear end for it.  So one of the issues since I got it is that the clutch will not "disengage" from the flywheel surface, even after bleeding the MC, Slave Cylinder, and getting good pressure in the system.  I can get minute movement, but not enough to allow for separation of the two surfaces.  I got under there to try to adjust the push rod from the slave cylinder to the clutch lever arm, and could not get enough distance difference to make it work.  However, I could only get the adjust nut to turn one way, thus, the rest of the shaft was turning as I turned the nut.  Is it supposed to turn freely so it can adust out both ways?  It does not appear that it would need to, as the "bolts" protruding from both ends of the adjustment barrel/nut appear the same size, and thus, I assume, are the same bolt going all the way through.  Is the nut supposed to catch on the edges of the yoke that attaches to the clutch lever arm?  IT looked like this could be possible, but this did not look very stable or strong, and my nut had gotten inside the edges of this yoke, and thus was squeezing in between the arms of the yoke instead of pushing it back.   Hopefully, someone can vaguely understand what I am trying to describe and ask and has been through this themselves so they can help me figure it out.   Thanks! Michael

[npca-skyfrog]

 I have replaced the cluch m/c, hardline and slave cyl. (1969) The clutch and flywheel were sticking on mine as well so I put it in gear, drug it with my Bronco, popped the clutch pedal a couple times and it now seems to move when clutch pedal is depressed. A little hard on the drive line but it worked. And since you are missing the rear r&p, you will have to lock the front hubs and put it in 4wd..., if you choose to use this method! If not, you probably know the option, drop tranny/pull engine, pry bar, swearing, etc...!

[npca-bigpupss]

Thanks for the feedback, but that is not my problem.  I can get some movement out of the clutch plate-just not complete separation, but if I wedge a pry bar in there, I can separate, so the issue is not with the clutch being stuck, but with the master cylinder rod not pushing enough distance to move the plate off of the freewheel.  Since you changed yours, you should know about adjusting the slave cylinder rod where it pushes on the clutch lever arm-this is where my question is.  Was there a way to adjust this much?  And does the rod itself contact and move the lever arm, or does the whole nut edge up against the "yoke" attached to the lever arm to the clutch plate.   Thanks! Michael