Sputtering to a Stall

[Marshall]

I just moved the existing inline filter for now. When it was fully out I blew through it to check flow and it was consistant with my blowing pressure coming out the other end. I've ordered 2 clear universal ones to install before and after the fuel pump.

I don't think it would classify as shooting into the bucket with every stroke, maybe a mild stream.

[RiverPatrol]

Your glass bowl should have a filter in it. Then you wouldn't need the other inline filter. Here is the filter on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Patrol-6 ... 1880964763

You should get stronger than a steady stream from the fuel pump. It should really shoot. Try removing the inline filter like Robert suggested.

The fact that there is some junk in the bottom of the glass bowl is a strong indication that there is junk in the lines and/or the tank. That is more than enough to clog your inline filter.

[faux40]

I suggest pulling the tank and having it cleaned and lined. If the tank is rusting inside, you'll never solve the filter problem -- It will clog as fast as you replace them. I had our tank cleaned and lined several months ago -- It cost a couple hundred but at least pulling the tank is super easy!

Good luck!

John

[Esteban]

I personally think that Marshall needs to concentrate in troubleshooting one item at a time, and then proceed to the next (don't mess with the ignition and fuel at the same time, as an example) Yes, the fuel tank seems to need some serious cleaning, but in the mean time with what he has done should be enough to get the Patrol running.

Either the fuel pump is not delivering enough, or the carburetor is not letting in enough fuel due to a stuck needle valve or float. Since you have installed a rebuilt pump, try checking the carb first.

Make sure that the glass bowl of the filter is sitting correctly and no leaks are present there. The cork gasket there is tricky, specially if it's old and dry.

To test the fuel pump, you can buy at Harbor Freight a "Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester" for $15.
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump- ... 93547.html

The pump, according to the Service Manual, should put a pressure of 3.8 to 4.8 psi (0.27 to 0.34 kg/cm2) (note: this is from the 78 manual). It also has a capacity test, and says that the pump should deliver around 0.42 gl per minute (1.6 L/min) or about 6 - 7 cups, when running at about 1000 rpm. Just using the starter could give you an idea of the performance.

[Flaggoni]

There is also a fine mesh screen inside the 'banjo' fitting at the carb inlet.

[Marshall]

Thanks guys.

I checked the ignition coil today and it read 1.9 ohms primary resistance - from what I found online anywhere from 0.4 - 2 is a good reading. And secondary resistance read 8,600 - and 6K - 15K is good from the site I looked at.

I will take out the old metal inline fuel pump, and either run with nothing for now to accurately test the fuel pump, or put in a new one. I'm assuming this WIX one will suffice? : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9 ... sr=8-2#Ask I'l also grab the glass bowl filter while I'm at it.

If I'm lucky it's just this old inline filter that causing the problem with a blockage. I'm assuming it's not the fuel pump since I just got it rebuilt by Then and Now Auto.

Next, I'll move onto the carb. When taking this apart, will I need to buy new gaskets to put back together? most likely?

[Marshall]

*** Update on carburetor - I found out from the previous owner that she just rebuilt it, this past March. So I could assume with some certainty that it's functioning as it should.

I think the pump is not working properly, it's definitely not shooting out by any means. Culprit = old metal inline fuel filter - (I hope). please, please....

[Marshall]

Alright, SUCCESS!!

I pulled the old filter and put in a new clear one in it's place, filter innards for the glass bowl are on the way. I took apart the carburetor and cleaned it, this was most certainly the problem. I found the manual for the Rochester Carb and read through the step-by-step - then a little FaceTime with Cameron, and viola! Clean carb... And all the brass components and gasket are new, and look great, so that's a plus.

When I took off the old metal inline filter, something sizable inside was shaking around, maybe some part of the filter broke loose and failed, hence sending all the debris on to the carb.

So, problem solved! Thank you all for the help, no way I would have figured it out on my own. I'll add the carburetor to my growing list of things I now understand and can take apart and reassemble.

A few before and after pictures of the inside of the carb.
BEFORE:

unnamed-1.jpg

AFTER:

unnamed.jpg

NEW inline filter, BEFORE the fuel pump.

unnamed-2.jpg

So. I fired it up and was going to take it around the block to see how she runs... BRAKES ARE STUCK. They aren't fully locked and stuck, but very close to it. The pedal is very fully hard and only has about 1/2" of travel on it. I rebuilt the MC with the Corvette rebuild, and all the wheel cylinders are new. All the adjuster nuts are fully backed out. Prior to this they were just fine, I put probably 100 miles on the truck since doing the brakes. Any ideas on what caused this? and more importantly how to fix it? It's like the brakes are applied all the time, and there isn't the capability for them to travel back to the unexpanded state. Is there an outlet somewhere to release pressure that might be clogged? or a valve? What am I missing?? THANKS!!

[rjiggy]

Marshall,

Did you remember to install the original spacer between the fuel pump and the block when you put the rebuilt pump back in?

Also, Faux40 had an issue with his rebuilt pump and ended up doubling the spacers to get the pump to produce.

A quote from John's post:

"I also called Then & Now about the fuel pump -- won't pump when mounted with one 1/4" spacer; pumps fine with two 1/4" spacers. T&N will modify the pump's push rod "under warranty" or, he suggested making a thicker spacer and simply running that -- even when I suggested that it may not actually be the correct pump in the first place. Good folks there"

Rick

[RiverPatrol]

So. I fired it up and was going to take it around the block to see how she runs... BRAKES ARE STUCK. They aren't fully locked and stuck, but very close to it. The pedal is very fully hard and only has about 1/2" of travel on it. I rebuilt the MC with the Corvette rebuild, and all the wheel cylinders are new. All the adjuster nuts are fully backed out. Prior to this they were just fine, I put probably 100 miles on the truck since doing the brakes. Any ideas on what caused this? and more importantly how to fix it? It's like the brakes are applied all the time, and there isn't the capability for them to travel back to the unexpanded state. Is there an outlet somewhere to release pressure that might be clogged? or a valve? What am I missing?? THANKS!!

It sounds like the master is building too much pressure. I just talked to someone else recently who had a similar situation. He had had a shop rebuild his master, but when he drove the Patrol to work by the time he got there the brakes would be locked up. If he cracked the brake line and released the pressure then the brakes were fine, until his next trip. I don't know what would cause that. I wonder if it might have something to do with the amount of shims between the master and the firewall? I seem to remember having to add or remove those shims for a similar problem.

Congratulations on the discovery in the carb. It's a good thing you're confident with tinkering with that stuff.