SWERVE - 1972 MWB Soft Top

[RiverPatrol]

After having have driven the 5 speed and 3 speed, I much prefer the 3 spd, so quite happy having all rebuilt stuff.

Really? More detail, please. What is it about the 5 speed that you didn't like, enough to prefer the 3 speed over it?

[Esteban]

Great Steve. Different mindset already.

With the final ratio of 4.33:1 you probably can handle bigger tires with ease, and keep moving at the same speed. Which MQ had that ratio?
I have this ratios saved some years ago:
4.375:1 (turbo diesel hardtop & deluxe wagon).
4.875:1 ( cab/ chassis SD33 & pick- up SD330).
4.111:1 (wagon P40).
4.625:1 (others).

I had a 1983 wagon with the P40 engine, and the final ratio was 3.364:1 That Patrol handled beautiful in the highway and a couple of times pushed it to its max of 96 mph (155 km/h). However, in 1st gear the final combined ratio was the same as the G60 Patrol, so no improvement there.

[Swerve]

After having have driven the 5 speed and 3 speed, I much prefer the 3 spd, so quite happy having all rebuilt stuff.

Really? More detail, please. What is it about the 5 speed that you didn't like, enough to prefer the 3 speed over it?

Having driven both, yes I can comment.

I know all those with 3 speeds want a Marks, BUT

Marks 5 speed 1st gear is so lowly geared normal driving is a pita. Taking off from lights you get across the 1st lane (3m) and you need to change to 2nd. You can use 2nd for takeoff’s s you use the clutch a little too much. It just gets very annoying after a while.

5th gear, with all older engine, I understand you don’t have the original factory power, when you are doing the 100km on the freeway, the P motor is not strong enough to push 5th gear, I actually have my accelerator pressed less in on 4th gear then 5th gear. That translates to more fuel, even though you are in 5th, then as 5th is too high, you have to switch to 4th for everything other than slight downhill’s. You end up staying in 4th gear as just easier.

Yes it is nice, but when you get into a 3 speed, it is way much easier to drive, only headache in no 1st syncro when pulling up at a red light, and it goes green. Yes we all crap on about 3 speed offroad, but we all will do 90% on road and 10% offroad, 3speed will do exactly what I need of it and be trustworthy, almost every Marks you see needs or has had a rebuild, that doesn’t really sit well with me. I know my rebuilt P motor, rebuilt 3 speed, rebuild transfer are solid, yes might need more clutch on those rare occasions. But she will be fine.

3 speed will still travel at 100km, but honestly the 60 Series doesn’t really like it, better at around 80-90kph, even when I had the Marks.

Now I still have a Marks 5 speed, but is also need a rebuild if I choose one day to install it.

[Esteban]

Good to hear these comments with solid arguments (they are solid because I totally agree! )

Around the late 70s Toyota fitted the Land Cruiser with 4 speeds, and the owners were bragging about it. The 1st was a joke in the city, and almost a waste of time like Steve's description of the 1st in the Marks. A total different story was the MQ Patrol with 4 speeds, but a lower ratio (at least on mine 3.364:1). 1st, 2nd and 3rd ended up being very close in final ratio at the wheels as the 60 series Patrol, but on top you had the 4th that was very useful in any condition.

[RiverPatrol]

Perfect explanation, thank you.

[miller]

I'm hijacking your thread Steve...

Did you end up fitting the firewall with the body lift blocks? Did you see a potential problem with gear leavers and steering column?

Thanks mate

[Swerve]

I'm hijacking your thread Steve...

Did you end up fitting the firewall with the body lift blocks? Did you see a potential problem with gear leavers and steering column?

Thanks mate

Tim,

I did install them and then removed them as not legal. When they were in, I worked out I could elongate some of the steering box holes/ skinner bolts etc, to angle it further up, otherwise the steering would be 2” short.

Gear levers can be fixed by either cutting some sheet metal out, bending with a oxy the levers to better suit, but no hadn’t noticed any issue with them. Was more an issue with

1- Radiator hoses
2- Brake lines
3- Electrical looms
4- Steering column
5- Ugly gap between chassis and body

By memory 1” would be better and less obvious.

Steve

pS- starting to think of work now on the G60

[Swerve]

So with all this Cape York discussion going around I need to start making plan to bring the 72 home from the NSW South Coast.

So the fully rebuilt engine/ 3 speed and transfer are in, locked F&R MQ diffs are in.

List will go like this

1- Connect up tailshafts (from G60 transfer to MQ diffs) and handbrake. I have some from BuiltG60.
2- Prepare engine for starting, electrical, fuel lines etc
3- Give to mechanic to start/ valves/ timing/ etc
4- Car should be driveable (only handbrake) but at least can be moved
5- Install bump stops/ remove sways bars
6- New exhaust, side exit
7- Finish all electricals, lights, plugs etc.
8- Install roll bar (sitting in garden for 4 years)
9- Start changing all F&R wheel bearings
10- Install new discs
11- Get MQ disc calipers rebuilt and rears as well
12- Bleed brakes
13- Trim front bull bar and paint, also test PTO
14- Install 35” wheels from storage

Also will leave crappy tub on the 72 and plate the rear, this will mean I can ding and trash this tub for the trip, cut the rear guards for the 35" and just have fun.

[RiverPatrol]

Sounds like an ambitious plan. Can't wait to see the results.

[Swerve]

On the weekend cleaned the garage up, moved boat onto the street getting ready for the 72 to come home from storage.

Bought a MX5 seat from ebay, should be skinny enough to fit, also a skinny backrest, may not work, but gotta try. If it works, also a huge selection of waterproof covers on ebay, canvas and all

Also watching some 15" x 35's for spares as my BFG's are only a set of 4.