1967 Family Patrol Project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby moore_rb » Tue May 13, 2014 9:05 pm

faux40 wrote:I'm thinking heli-coil... but have heard that these are not good for exhausts.
John



I had never heard that before. I have used heli coils on maybe 10 or 12 cast iron exhaust manifolds throughout the years, and I never saw any adverse effects from it.... :?:
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Postby Coyote Patrol » Tue May 13, 2014 10:41 pm

Looks like you did a good job centering the hole. I have had a lot of luck drilling out broken bolts. From what i see here since you have such a centered hole i would drill it out just a bit larger so the threads on the manifold are just exposed and then spray with WD or any oil and tap it out carefully with a tap. Run the tap in and out about 3-4 turns at a time until you clean the hole out. This works great as long as the hole is drilled straight and centered.:D also i have used helicoils on heads and manifolds and i have never had an issue. :shifty:
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Postby faux40 » Tue May 13, 2014 11:00 pm

Does anyone know what the thread size and pitch are? I may give the chase it with a tap method a try... then try a heli-coil.

Thanks!

John
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Postby Coyote Patrol » Tue May 13, 2014 11:12 pm

3/8x20
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Postby faux40 » Tue May 13, 2014 11:44 pm

How do you know these details? Impressive!

Any suggestions on parts washer solutions -- I got the Harbor Freight unit from the kids and am trying to find something that 1) works and 2) doesn't require a second mortgage!

Thanks!

John
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Postby Coyote Patrol » Tue May 13, 2014 11:54 pm

faux40 wrote:How do you know these details? Impressive!

Any suggestions on parts washer solutions -- I got the Harbor Freight unit from the kids and am trying to find something that 1) works and 2) doesn't require a second mortgage!

Thanks!

John

When i still had my auto shop i used kerosene in my parts washer. Another thing that works great for cleaning parts and your driveway is Superclean from Wal Mart, but let it soak for a while and then pressure wash it off. Small parts that are really stubborn can be soaked in a tub of carbureator cleaner, but be careful with this around your kids and use gloves.
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Postby Flaggoni » Wed May 14, 2014 7:04 am

I'm with 2869ral on his re tapping methods.
Heli- Coils work great on exhausts IMHO.
When installed, you'll have a stainless steel hole that will not corrode in the future.
The custom Heli-Coil tap will also cut nice new threads in place of the damaged ones.
I'd recommend practicing on a scrap piece, perhaps viewing a video, before doing it on the actual part.
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Postby moore_rb » Wed May 14, 2014 8:39 am

faux40 wrote:
Any suggestions on parts washer solutions --


I use the yellow stuff from Harbor freight, straight up (undiluted), for the heavy degreasing (like wheel bearings and chassis parts)- it also strips paint from small parts very effectively. Just beware that after washing parts in this stuff and rinsing them- they will start rusting almost immediately, so give them a shot of WD40 after cleaning.

for more general degreasing (nuts/bolts, etc) Simple Green, Purple Power, and the Walmart Superclean all work about equally well I have found.

I used to use laquer thinner, or kerosene (like Ron did) a million years ago- Arguments against these options are the obvious: flammability, and they evaporate quickly if you don't keep them sealed up

Just remember the biggest risk out there regarding parts cleaners - keep any cleaner that contains Tetrachloroethylene AWAY from any part you plan to weld on - chlorinated brake spray cleaners are the most common form.
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Postby Coyote Patrol » Wed May 14, 2014 9:21 am

:shock:
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Postby Coyote Patrol » Wed May 14, 2014 9:45 am

:D
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Postby moore_rb » Wed May 14, 2014 9:55 am

Agreed - I used it too, and it worked well... my point was that the modern solutions offer the same abilities, without the associated risks. That's all

Did you take my "million years ago" wise crack seriously? You're not that old (and neither am I ;) )

I used kerosene, gas, laquer thinnner, all those options a "million years ago" ... in the 1990's :lol:
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Postby faux40 » Thu May 15, 2014 10:40 am

Since we think we're getting close to actually putting the engine back in, I ordered one new seatbelt as a sample to see how it looks and how well it will work in the beast. If it's decent, I'll order six more so we'll be fully equipped for trips to the backwoods. Anyway, it got here yesterday. First, I installed it somewhere safe to test it's effectiveness but discovered that it is too easy to release and does not fully restrain the kids...

Provides safe TV viewing...
BTW, it's Barritt's 11th B-Day today...
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Okay, in reality, I'm not thrilled with the belt... It's chrome, but that "chrome" comes from a sticker and the rest of the buckle just appears to have a light zinc coating or similar.
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Here's what it cost:
Screen Shot 2014-05-15 at 8.38.36 AM.png


Now, we're looking for Plan-B
John
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Postby RiverPatrol » Thu May 15, 2014 10:54 am

Happy birthday, Barritt! :occasion-birthday: :occasion-cake: I would have thought you were older than 11. ;)

Here's lookin' at you, kid. :D

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Postby zed » Thu May 15, 2014 10:57 am

1969 Patrol L60
1965 Patrol L60 (parts provider)
1966 PL520
1970 240Z
1990 300ZX (sold 10/04/13)
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Postby faux40 » Fri May 16, 2014 8:11 pm

The new clutches are here! The new clutches are here! I AM SOMEBODY!

I got the call today... Capital Clutch finished up the clutch part rebuilds! Yay!

It's a beautiful day when you can pick up your new and exciting parts!
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Of course, I nearly had to take a second mortgage for the parts (although it was for two Patrols worth of clutches, pressure plates, parking brake bands, parking brake drums and two new throwout bearings!)
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Don't they look pretty? The dealer can still get the clutch disks... there is one is LA and one in Tennessee but they're pricy! $128 each. The nissan dealer says that the pressure plates may still be available, but it may take some time to get them... but then again, they may simply have not been removed from the system yet... $261.93 each! I'll stick with the rebuild!
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Had the parking brake drums and bands rebuilt while I was at it...
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And the new throwout bearings... they are an off the shelf item PN#2065 for $33. The Nissan dealer can them for $56 each so I did okay here... assuming they fit!
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Houston, we have a problem... The sleeve shows wear and needs to be welded up and reground flat. Dang. But, CapClutch will do them fairly inexpensively... I'll share next week.
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My local Nissan parts department is fetching the little wire for the sleeve for $5 each... they'll be here late next week. Universal City Nissan in SoCal is sending me the pilot bushings $33 for two... delivered!

Anyway, that's the news! Have a great weekend!

John
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