Moore_rb's 66 Ebay Patrol (re)build thread

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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by RiverPatrol »

Lots of great info there. I like the solution for cleaning out the cross member. What brand of hole saw did you use to get through that steel?
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by faux40 »

Wow! $20 for two bolts... they sure are proud! Looks fantastic!
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by moore_rb »

RiverPatrol wrote:What brand of hole saw did you use to get through that steel?

It's a Milwaukee Bi-Metal hole saw kit that I got at Home Depot several years ago... They have stayed sharp through numerous projects so far.

It ripped through both layers of that crossmember no sweat. It was much more work cleaning out all the mud :)
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by IrishPatrol »

Wow that is out standing work. Can't wait to see what you come up with for the front.
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by sleepyzzz »

i sell hardware for a wholesale company. looking at the head of the bolt, i can't tell if that is a grade 5 heat treated bolt, or G8 Caterpillar bolt, or even worse a G2 which is the cheapest of all.
guessing a 7/8" X 2 and lock nuts to go with it, cost would be around $2 to the dealer(G8), and i am talking bolt and lock nut. you bought them at Home Depot maybe? our suggested retail on G5 $1.75 for the bolt and lock nut. nice work on your rig. will taking the rubber off the engine mount cause more vibration through the frame to inside the cab?
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by moore_rb »

sleepyzzz wrote:you bought them at Home Depot maybe? our suggested retail on G5 $1.75 for the bolt and lock nut. nice work on your rig. will taking the rubber off the engine mount cause more vibration through the frame to inside the cab?

Ace Hardware... the tag said they were G5, and I knew they were way expensive- I could have gotten the same ones at Copperstate for probably 6 bucks total if I had been willing to drive another 20 miles round trip.

yeah, I'm sure without the rubber I'll feel more vibration through the floor at idle, but I don't expect it to be too annoying. Besides, It's not like a Patrol feels like a Cadillac WITH the rubber mounts :)
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Blue 67 Hardtop (sold March1997)
Green 62 Softtop L60-2-00504 (undergoing restoration)
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by sleepyzzz »

wow, Ace is the place :lol: those boys need some competition
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by faux40 »

I just bought a bunch of Grade 8s for our machine at ACE... After the 72-month financing, a low introductory interest rate and a moderate down payment, I was able to bring the shiny new bolts home ;-)

Yea, Ace is pretty proud of their bolts but they do have a big selection which is nice.

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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by sleepyzzz »

faux40 wrote:I just bought a bunch of Grade 8s for our machine at ACE... After the 72-month financing, a low introductory interest rate and a moderate down payment, I was able to bring the shiny new bolts home ;-)

Yea, Ace is pretty proud of their bolts but they do have a big selection which is nice.

John


you are having too much fun. that was good :lol:
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Re: Moore_rb's Green 66 build thread

Post by moore_rb »

This past weekend was a classic example of "No matter how many times you measure, and no matter how carefully you plan, you will always be hit by something you didn't expect...."

I planned to spend time continuing to hook everything back up to the engine and tranny, but as soon as I went to connect all the clutch linkage, DOH :doh:

The linkage rod was off due to the bell crank being dropped when I lowered the rear trans mounts to set the rear driveline angle, and the rear clutch arm actually contacted the crossmember

From the front:

Image

and the rear:

Image


Fortunately, it turned out to be a pretty easy challenge- a 6-inch bi-metal sawzall blade had just enough clearance to fit in there and enlarge the round holes in the engine brackets that the connecting rod feeds through, to provide the necessary clearance to allow it to swing back and forth. After that I hit all the rough edges with the die grinder to clean off the burrs and then hooked everything up and tested the range of motion on the clutch.

Again, from the front (after):

Image

and from the rear:

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L-R:
White 65 Hardtop L60-3-00617 (undergoing restoration)
Red 65 hardtop 4L60-002565 (scrapped for parts)
66 Hardtop "El-Bondo Patrol", L60-00511 (Restored, then sold June2020)
Blue 67 Hardtop (sold March1997)
Green 62 Softtop L60-2-00504 (undergoing restoration)
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