Calling all carb experts

[mdawg4x4]

My 67 came with a Rochester Monojet, model # 7029021. Same as this http://www.carb-x.com/domestic-carburet ... bs/11-326a
It acts like it is flooding when at idle. Also noticed fuel weeping around the gaskets, same as another post I read through. Don't know if it has been rebuilt before, so I bought a kit. When taking it apart and putting it back together, I noticed the fast idle adjuster is free to move up and down, leaving an opening to the top of the bowl area under the screw head (pic below). I figure something is missing, so I am considering ordering the carburetor in the link above.
Also, when taking apart, I wanted to have a good starting point with the idle screw, do I counted the number of turns to bottom it out. It only too 1/4-1/2 turn to bottom out. Does this sound right?

The one from the link above states it has been live engine tested and adjusted. While I can do a little of my own mechanic work, and did rebuild my engine in my CJ5 many many years ago, I am no carb mechanic. I feel more comfortable replacing with one that has been professionally rebuilt and tested.

Since I am going to replace it, does anybody have any recommendations of a different model that would be a better choice?
Thanks for the help!

[Coyote Patrol]

I havnt rebuilt a monojet in quite some time, but I don't think there is anything missing there under that screw. On the flooding, It sounds like the needle and seat, or float is bad or out of adjustment. If you have the plastic "nitro fill" float replace it with a brass float. The nitro fill tends to absorb fuel. On the idle air screw, turn it all the way in easily don't crank it down. Now turn it out about 2 turns. Now start the vehicle and let it get to operating temperature. At idle slowly turn the idle air screw in until the engine just starts to stumble. Now slowly turn it out until the engine smooths out. At the point the engine smooths out i would turn it out about 1/2 turn. That should be good. you said the screw turned in 1/4-1/2 turn and bottomed out, that sounds like it was in too far, this would have caused it to run lean. Maybe it was in that far to compensate for the "flooding" float issue. Just for your info, these rochester carbs are known for weeping gaskets. Not a whole lot you can do there, its normal to an extent. Good luck

[mdawg4x4]

According to this, the screw is an Idle Vent Valve (Item #7). I am missing the spring shown for the idle vent valve. Maybe that is what keeps it from freely raising up.
I did get a brass float.
I do not have items # 20, 21, 35, 37, 39, 40, and 41. There is a plug where item #40 and 41 go. I am guessing I do not need the fuel filter items, #20 and 21, with an electric fuel pump and inline filter?

[Coyote Patrol]

It will be fine to run it without the spring, as long as its not stuck open, but if you can find one at a hardware store i would put it in. Does your patrol have the idle control knob under the steering wheel? if so that is probably why the fast idle cam and linkage is missing. Fuel filter is not needed as long as there is one inline somewhere.