Patroling through South America

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Patroling through South America

Post by Nicolanders »

PART 1: Finding a Patrol in Tucumán, Argentina - February-March 2014

At the beginning of 2014, we arrived at the airport of Buenos Aires, Argentina, carrying only our backpacks and looking to travel around South America for a year. We had dreams of going all the way from Patagonia - the southernmost part of the world - to North America. Back home we had talked about buying a car. Travelling is very much about freedom: being able to go where you want, when you want, never worrying about houses, jobs, or schools that tell you where and when to be. What better way to experience this freedom than in a car, giving you the option of just going. Once arrived in Argentina, the idea grew on us. Transportation and hotels are expensive in Argentina compared to other South American countries. Also, lots of people say you need your own vehicle for properly experiencing the vast wilderness of Patagonia. If we could get a cheap car that we could also sleep in, thus saving money on hotels, it might be doable for us even though we did not have a lot of money.
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A couple of Australians had written on an overlander forum looking for someone to take over their Nissan Patrol 60-series. After driving the Patrol all the way from Colombia, it broke down a few hours drive from Tucumán in the north of the country after they had driven it with too much load (former forum user 'Jimmyrobby' - their story is here: http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2464). From there it was towed to a mechanic, who gave the diagnosis. The bill would be too much for the Australians, so they asked if someone would like take over the car and repairs alike. We were very interested.
The repair should finish soon so we could inspect the Patrol together. The Australians were in a great rush to get home having run out of time and money. They needed someone to take over the formal obligations of importing a vehicle (or they could not leave the country) as well as the bill at the mechanic, about $1500.
We fell for the Patrol immediately. The low price meant we could afford it. So we did the paperwork for the sale in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, changing ownership of a Colombian car can only be done in Colombia, so they had arranged with a notary to have a power of attorney made instead. Appearantly, many travelers do ownership transfers that way, so we figured we would not run into legal problems. A couple of weeks later we arrived in Tucumán in northern Argentina and saw the beauty.
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The necessary repairs were remachining the crankshaft and new bearing shells. The clutch had to be relined and have a few springs replaced. The deal was also that the mechanic would give it a thorough service to have everything in order for travelling. Other than that, the Australians assured us, the Patrol was fine and ready to get on the road.
Two weeks later the mechanic would finish, so we said goodbye to the Australians and travelled around the north of the country for a few weeks while waiting. We could not wait to get going.
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When we returned to the mechanic two weeks later, the engine was still on the floor of the shop and nothing had happened. It turned out this mechanic was not the best one you could have hoped for. It took him another four weeks to finish the work. During that time we kept coming back a couple of times every week, each time being told it would be finished on this and that date,, only to return and find not much had happened. It was exhausting.
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It seemed like the mechanic was not capable of handling this type of car. When they took the engine out, they had not detached the transmission properly and broke the clutch bearing retainer.
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They therefore decided to reassemble this extremely heavy engine and the transmission on the floor and put everything back in one go. They were quite exhausted when we saw them that night ;)
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When he did work, he did as little as possible. The deal was to have the Patrol in top condition ready for traveling, every minor and major thing checked and fixed. However, when he finally finished by the end of March, a number of things were in bad condition. Many of the following issues were only discovered later on. He had changed the engine oil, but left the transmission low on oil and not touched the rear differential at all (it was virtually empty!). Some of the sparkplugs needed changing, as did the ignition cables. The drive belt was dangerously close to breaking. The water pump leaked because the gasket was worn out, and the water pipe was close to cracking. There was a hole in the fuel tank, and the muffler and exhaust pipe had big holes in them. The alternator regulator was broken causing voltage problems that meant the battery was also fried. Because of the long period the Patrol had been parked, the three extra batteries we had were also dead.

However, the biggest problem was discovered right away: When he declared the Patrol was finished, we took it for a spin, and even with our very limited knowledge of cars, we could tell something was very wrong. We returned and had him drive it a bit. He then declared there was serious problems with the transmission and that we could not use 4x4. He advised us to drive it 700 kilometers to Córdoba, Argentina’s second city, and seek out a "transmission specialist" there. It would not be possible to find one in Tucumán.
He also said there was a minor issue with the clutch. It was difficult to understand exactly what he said, but something did not fit as it was supposed to at the center of the clutch. So when the pedal was pressed, there would be a noise because of the movement. He assured us it would not cause any problems.

While trying to figure out how bad the problem with the transmission was, we did get to drive the Patrol out to the farm outside the city were we had worked. So we did get a taste of what it would be like to travel in a Patrol.
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What were we to do? Our knowledge of cars and engines was close to none. Our Spanish was not very good either, and this mechanic from Tucumán spoke with a heavy dialect and did not bother to try to make himself understandable. Was it even possible to drive it to another city in that condition? And if we could, would we be able to get the replacement parts anyway?
We decided to give it our best shot. It would be too sad to give up on our Patrol. We had been looking forward to get going for almost two months. During that time we had spent lots of time and money getting stuff for our trip. That would all be wasted if we could not go. We were determined to get it on the road. But we were going to need help, so we started looking around.

To be continued…
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by Nicolanders »

PART 2: Getting help fixing a Patrol in Tucumán, Argentina - April-May 2014

Desperate about what might be wrong with the transmission and very keen on avoiding once again being in the hands of a bad mechanic, we reached out for help. The previous owners had pointed us to this forum. We posted what had happened and uploaded a video of the sound the transmission made to see if we could get some advice. And we got it big time. People we had never met or talked to before did whatever they could for us. This was the big silver lining to the whole situation.
Several forum people immediately started dissecting the problem from seeing only a homemade video and could tell us right away that the problem was a shaft and/or bearings in the transmission or transfer case. We were impressed. Justin (jwgreen) offered to help getting the parts. Esteban called Spanish-speaking mechanics on Skype many times to help us figure out exactly what was going on. Such a great help. We were so grateful.
From the forum, we also got various Patrol manuals and drawings that we started studying. We have learnt a whole lot from all this and created an English-Spanish dictionary for Patrol parts - having never heard of most of them before - to use for talking with mechanics. Esteban also helped with this. (The topic in question, which has become much longer since, is here: http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2884)
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Meanwhile, having been in Tucumán for more than a month, we had made new friends in the city. One of them knew a mechanic, and he helped us find a Toyota 4x4-mechanic. People were very helpful and friendly and made everything tolerable.
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The new mechanic, Ariel, was a different breed than the first one. A very nice guy, he went through great lengths to help us out during the following two months. It would take that long before we finally left Tucumán. During that time, we had to realize we would not go to Patagonia. It was starting to get dark and cold down there (close to the Antarctic), and neither the Patrol nor we were equipped for that kind of weather. A real shame. It was a tough one to swallow. Patagonia was the main reason we had traveled to Argentina in the first place.
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Ariel started by taking the tranny apart and confirmed the countershaft in the transfer case was worn down (as Esteban had guessed!). The bearings on it also needed changing, as did the synchronizer rings in the transmission. The good news were that all the gears were fine (later on, he said that there was some damage, but it would only cause some noise and not degrade further). We would be able to go if we were able to source a new countershaft. But 60s Patrol parts are virtually impossible to find in Argentina because of the country’s strict import regulations.
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We got back with the news and photos to the forum. Once again, we were amazed. The very same day we confirmed which parts were broken, Ron (2869ral) brought his tools to the garage and found a working countershaft, two needle bearings and two synchronizer rings. He said we could have them free of charge. Incredible! We were stoked, and very grateful. It seemed our luck was finally changing. The next day, in early April, Ron went down to the post office in Arizona and sent a package to Argentina. We only had to wait for it to arrive and spent the next couple of weeks working on a horse farm outside the city.
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Three weeks later the package arrived at the customs office in Tucumán. It was time for a huge dose of moronic bureaucracy. Arriving early at the office to get things going, we paid a few minor amounts and were finally looking at the package on the desk of the customs officer. We were not worried since the shipment had been properly declared and everything. They opened it and examined the parts, and to our astonishment, they said the package would not be allowed to enter the country. Why? Because used auto parts cannot be imported into Argentina. To further stress their point they pointed to some bits of oil on the shaft. The package was going back to the States.
It was unbelievable. For two weeks, we tried everything we could think of. First talking to official auto parts dispatchers to see if they could do something. Then asking people we knew if they had contacts in the customs office. Finally, once again on a clever tip from Esteban, trying to bribe a customs officer to allow us to switch the broken parts for the good ones, thus allowing the package to return with virtually the same content as before. The mechanic Ariel even tried to see if he could do something, being a local.

Our efforts were futile. The package was going back. They even told us they would keep the package at the office for another month before they returned it, even though they assured us there could be no other possible outcome. So we could not even try to have the package shipped through another country. The parts we needed were out of reach. We were not very fond of Argentina's customs system. This was tough, and it seemed like it would never get any better.
In the end, Ariel came to our rescue. At the start of May he figured it would be possible to have a new countershaft fabricated and said he could re-use the needle bearings if he could not source them. But in the end, he did. Only the synchronizer rings would have to be put back in, although he was able to repair them a bit. Assured that he would take care of things (we were no longer fundamentally unable to trust a mechanic), we took off for a month of traveling around central Argentina. Drinking wine in Mendoza and seeing Americas highest mountain, Aconcagua. It was a great break from the dull city of Tucumán where there is nothing to see and nothing ever happens.
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Returning to Tucumán at the beginning of June, Ariel was finalizing the work. He had replaced the countershaft and the needle bearings, repaired the gear that holds the H-N-L shift in place, reassembled the transmission and put in lots of oil. He also discovered most of the things that the previous mechanic did not bother with. Thus, he replaced the alternator generator, made a holder for the battery, repaired the rear brake lines, and a couple of minor things. It cost us about $1000, so the price of the car had gone up to almost double. But at least now it was fixed up.
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We were ready to go. We finally left Tucumán on June 3rd - more than three months later than planned. Now, we were going north - towards Bolivia and the Andean highlands - were you can drive for hours in flat open spaces while being almost 4000 meters above sea level.
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It was great finally to drive the Patrol, finally to be on the road.
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To be continued…
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by miksum56 »

What an experience! Looking forward to the rest of story
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by RiverPatrol »

What an unforgettable adventure. You write your story so well i can picture being there with you. :) Thank you for sharing this wonderful excursion.
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by Nicolanders »

Thanks guys! :) Part 3 is coming soon...
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by Nicolanders »

PART 3: On the road in northwestern Argentina - early June 2014
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A few kilometers outside the city of Tucumán, we made a stop to tighten the straps that held the cover on the roof rack in place. While taking care of this, we noticed a strong smell of gasoline. Where was it coming from? We look under the car and saw a liquid dripping down from the rear. There was a hole in the gas tank.
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Normally, this might not be a big worry. But for us it was a downer. We had tried it so many times: being told our Patrol was ready only to discover another problem. And we did not know how to fix this. Would we need a new tank? And could they fit any tank to the Patrol, or would we need an original part thus putting us back Customs Hell?
We tried to call Ariel, but our phone had run out of credit. Should we really go back? We looked at each other and said "screw it", we were NEVER going back to Tucumán.

There was a camping spot 150 kilometers ahead. We drove there without problems, occasionally stopping to check on the leak. After some time it slowed down. Then stopped. So we figured it was a hole in the upper part of the tank. We would be fine if we only filled it half way up.
Once arrived at the camping spot, a municipal site next to a big sports ground where some local kids were playing basketball, we started cleaning stuff in the car and set up our roof tent. A custom design by the previous owners, the tent fabric had been attacked quite heavily by mold. We were able to clean the outer part, but the inner part was eaten and full of holes. We hoped it would be possible to have another one made later on, but for now we used a regular tent as the inner part.
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It was good to be on the road, sitting out there in a random Argentinian village where no tourists ever come by, making a campfire and drinking mate (Argentinian green tea, from a special cup with a metal straw) - a thing they are very big on down there.
In town the next day, a guy offered us a thousand dollars for the Patrol and offered us lots of praise. We told him we were not quite there yet, and got back on the road.

Some 200 kilometers later, we got to Jujuy, the last major city in Argentina before the Bolivian border. We camped out at a small spot outside town and wrote our advisors on the forum regarding the tank. Of course, we got an answer in no time, from Esteban, and it was good. Any mechanic could solder the tank and thus fix the problem in no time. What a relief.
So we continued our journey while looking out for mechanics. The road continued up through the Humahuaca Ravine, a beautiful, desolate area, several hundred kilometers long, where the ascent up to the Andes Mountains started to get serious.
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Our next campsite was in the village Tilcara at 2500 meters. There we ran into a couple of Argentinian guys who would become our first passengers. They were on a four-month trip from central Argentina to Colombia that they had been saving up to for two years. They were very exited to travel along in the Patrol.
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The next day, we went out and found our third mechanic in a small village. Definitely one of the best, and he had an awesome workshop.
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Having a couple of locals with us made it easier to get work done, and our new friends were keen to help out. The mechanic soldered the tank for a mere $10 for three hours' work.
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When we hit 2200 meters, the engine started to splutter a bit. It also sat in motion irregularly, kind of starting with a slight jump. The previous owners had told us the Patrol would have trouble driving at altitude above this level, but had said the problem was easily solved by using an electric fuel pump. Unfortunately, we could not get one here. We would have to cross a 3800-meter peak before getting to Bolivia, so we figured it would be impossible to go on without. Meanwhile, the slight jump when engaging the clutch had grown worse and was now more of a jolt. So we went back down the hill to Jujuy to get a fuel pump and have a mechanic check the jolt. Before trying to cross the mountains, we wanted to know if it was the clutch, or if it had to do with the transfer case - again.

Fingers crossed, we arrived in Jujuy and found a mechanic. An older guy came out and asked for a small trip. Immediately, he said the transmission was the problem. We assumed he said so because of the noise the transfer case still made, even after the repair. Anyway, we also knew they would not be able to get spare parts for any repairs, we just wanted an opinion.
But during the following days, the problem got even worse, and we feared the Patrol would break down completely at some random mountain pass.
Writing on this forum, once again several guys did all they could to advise us. With the problem increasing, we got more desperate, and it was a great comfort to have all these people helping us out. It was clear that people were really concerned for us and put a lot of effort into helping us out. We were very thankful for this, and it made a big difference for us to be able to follow the conversations with the mechanics.
We were advised to have the mechanic do a number of tests to locate the problem. He was not very willing to do so, he thought it was pointless, but we insisted, so he did it anyway. Checking the bolts on the clutch yoke, checking for crankshaft axial play, elevetaing the rear wheels while accelerating... His conclusion was firm: transmission.
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So we got back on the road headed for Bolivia, now with an electric fuel pump, thinking we would be good to go. We did not get far though. The engine suddenly set out, as if we had run out of gas. What now? We put the mechanical fuel pump back on, and were able to start, so we headed back to talk to the people who sold us the electric fuel pump. The mechanic had assembled it wrongly. The seller now did it properly, free of charge. Once again, we left Jujuy. But about to leave the city, the engine set out again. What was going on? We switched back to mechanical, but it did not help.
There we were, in Jujuy, the Patrol would not start, and we had no idea why. Had the crankshaft bearings the first mechanic replaced gone bad again? Or was it the jolt-problem that had now caused issues? We could not take it anymore. We were stuck again. Our Argentinian friends had to go on without us. They had limited time for traveling - and waiting around workshops. Very understandable, but also very much underlining how little we got to travel. We were still only 350 km from Tucumán.

Low on morale, we checked in to a hotel and decided to have the Patrol towed back to the mechanic the next day.
When we got back to the car, we tried to turn the key - why not. It started! We had no idea why, but were very happy, and we drove on down to the mechanic (on the way passing the tow truck that we had already called beforehand). The mechanic was not able to clear up the mystery. He adjusted the starter cables and put in a clean fuel filter, and then we went on, none the wiser. We knew he could not fix the jolt without spare parts, and we were now very anxious to leave Argentina. Their customs rules say that you cannot leave the country without your foreign car. Moreover, we had to cross Bolivia and be in Peru in only two weeks to meet up with a family member who was coming to visit us all the way from Denmark. We simply had to drive on and hope for the best.

Driving back up through the ravine, we almost got back up to Tilcara, where we had met the Argentinians a few nights earlier, before the engine set out again. While standing over the engine, scratching our hair, a car pulled up. Out came José, a very friendly mechanic on vacation with his wife and their mothers. How lucky were we? He asked what was wrong and started going through the fuel supply. He quickly found out that we had run out of gas. In the confusion of all the problems, we had forgot to put on gas (the fuel level indicator does not work). But he also found out why the engine had stopped the night before. It was not about fuel pumps, nor about the crankshaft. The air filter had simply come off the carburetor and was bouncing up and down. The rubber band had come in between and shut off the air supply to the carburetor. José put it back on, and then he said he would tow us to the nearest gas station. We chuckled a bit and tried to warn him about the weight of a 60s Patrol, but he did not care. And neither did his car:
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At the gas station he also noticed the main pipe for the cooler was leaking fluid and needed changing, as well as saying we should probably change the ignition cables. Why hadn't any of the mechanics we were paying thousands of dollars over the last months noticed these things? Incredible. But José was a really good guy.
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We spent the night in Humahuaca at 2900 meters, before continuing up the ravine and onto the Andean highlands the next day.
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The jolt-problem was mostly there when putting the car in motion, so we tried to stop as little as possible. The Patrol was not very strong; it could barely go 40 kph uphill. Even though (we had learned on the forum) it would lose lots of power in the high altitude, it still felt handicapped. It felt like an old steam locomotive when starting up. Only later would we discover that we were actually driving on five cylinders.
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Driving towards the Bolivian border, we only had a single engine stop all day. With the fuel pump working and the air intake firmly attached to the carb, we figured it was vapor lock (another thing we were introduced to on the forum). After a ten-minute break, we were able to continue.
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In the afternoon, as the sun began to set on the Andean highland, we arrived at the Bolivian border. In stark contrast to all the problems we had run into, we went through customs and immigration without problems. It was such a relief. Argentina had begun to seem like a prison the last few weeks - especially because we worried that we would not be allowed to leave without the car.
But now we were out, and had entered Bolivia. We were already planning to see another mechanic about our altitude problems, and maybe mend the jolt-problem, if possible. We drove on to the Tupiza-valley, where we would end up spending the next week.
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To be continued...
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by moore_rb »

This is such a fun story to be following... thanks !
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by RiverPatrol »

Wonderful pictures. You 2 are cute. :D
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by Esteban »

Such a wonderful journey! This probably has many of us so engaged and eager for the next installment. :D :D :D

Thanks for letting us be part of your adventure. :clap: :clap: :clap:
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Re: Patroling through South America

Post by Nicolanders »

Thanks for being part of it! Without you guys, the Patrol never would have made it out of Tucumán.
RiverPatrol wrote:Wonderful pictures. You 2 are cute. :D
Who? :) The Patrol and which one of us?

Part 4 coming up...
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