Patrol u-joint / universal joint source turns into project

Original and compatible parts

Postby curlrider11 » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:32 pm

I tried one more universal joint for fitment today at O'Reilly.... Part # 331ag and yet again while the outside dimensions were precise the inside dimensions of the spider didn't allow me to clear the yolk. Problem is, While most sites have helpful information on outside diameters of bearings and spiders they lack any diameters of inside dimensions. It's a wild goose chase.... I've decided to rebuild the existing U-joints since after giving them a hot bath and degreasing they look in suitable condition. Will post photos about that process some point soon. There is one website that looked like it had the U joints from this era in stock I'm going to see if I can chase one down while I rebuild my existing ones. I decided it's probably not best to grind down my yoke to make it fit.
IMG_20180821_094814768-768x1024.jpg
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Postby curlrider11 » Wed Aug 22, 2018 10:25 am

Current status of the project is that the u joints that were original to the patrol turn out to be quite serviceable. I am still hunting down adequate replacements and am talking to a source in Japan that seems to have the original koyo 1724D u joint bearings in stock. Trying to figure out if it's actually the original part and going to order one from Japan if it is. Fingers crossed. :pray: (there is a bit of a language barrier with the guy i'm talking to so hopefully i can actually get the right part).

First, pardon any gaps in helpful photos. I was completely covered in grease and fiddling with the phone at certain spots was impossible. I'll try to fill the gaps missing with photos if i can. (this project requires at least 1 roll of paper towels to degrease parts and fingers).

Anyway, after removal (I didn't have a press, i hammered them out with a large punch on a vise)...the existing joints can be taken apart without too much difficulty down to removing all the needle bearings and clearing out all the grime, grease build-up and dirt. I'm in process of disassembling 2 u joints and giving them a grease repacking.... here are a few photos of the process....
disassembling u joint.jpg




The bearing caps have covers that can be carefully removed by gently prying them off with a screw driver (carefully!) think opening a paint can but with a surgeons touch. (note: some of the bearings came apart when removing, and the covers were fused to the spider themselves and had to be gingerly worked on to pry off and clean.
crusty bearing cap.jpg


After the covers are off the bearings there is a washer/disk inside that holds the needle bearings in place from falling out. These just simply slide off and can be cleaned, then the needle bearings removed and wiped down or given a degrease bath.
degrease bath.jpg
close up.jpg


The spiders themselves can be degreased and run through with a wire brush or wheel (careful not to wire wheel the metal that comes in contact with the bearing caps and wear it down.) There was a TON of grit between the lip of the spider and where the bearing cap slides down onto it. I'm unsure if at one point there was a cork gasket there intended to keep grease in or not. If there was, it was completely disintegrated in every cap, and I chose at this point to not replace anything there. We'll see how it does when i add grease. In one photo it appears what came out was the remnants of a cork gasket of some kind... in theory, the spinning of the u joint shouldn't fling grease out but keep it in. The seal was probably there at best to keep dust out....

The inside of the spider can be cleaned of grease by running a thin dowel through and forcing the old grease out. I broke the grease zerk when i was removing one of the u joints and had to use a special stripped screw removal tool to get it out. I recommend removing the grease fittings BEFORE removing the U joints and replacing them AFTER reinstallation...

Once bearings are cleaned, it's a matter of greasing the caps well, putting the needle bearings back in (20 per cap), replacing the retaining washer, and reapplying the cap.
cleaned up.jpg

old junky vs new cleaned.jpg


Sometimes the bearing covers went back on the caps smoothly, sometimes they needed a little gentle tapping to seat back on flush ( very carefully as the metal is easily distorted.)
It then goes all back together quite easily.
re assembling in yoke.jpg
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Postby Esteban » Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:09 am

Outstanding job! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Thanks for doing this excellent guide.

I will considering shifting the front u-joints to the rear arbor. Please let us know if there's a difference in wear between the two sets.

In the beginnings of the Patrol, all the components of the u-joint were replaceable, as you can see below in a parts manual from 65. Each one of the rollers was a spare! They list them at 1/8" by the way. By 73, the u-joint was just a complete assembly in the parts manual.

I was able to purchase two decades ago, the bare cross or spider at a Nissan dealership overseas, since they were facing out old stock parts. They had 3 of the spiders, so I got them all. I will try to snap a picture of them tonight. Your guide has definitely encouraged me to tackle this maintenance repair.

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Postby curlrider11 » Wed Aug 22, 2018 11:24 am

Wow very helpful and very cool exploded view of the drive shaft and yoke parts....seems like from the photos there wasn't a rubber or cork washer in the u-joints (looking at parts 7+8 from your photo upload).

I didn't notice much difference in wear between the two u joints. I will swap the forward and rear u joints when i replace them to keep wear even, that's a good idea. The rig has 50K original miles and wasn't very abused going down the road. Hopefully it all goes back together smoothly :)

Waiting to put it all back together since I ordered the spline dust boot kit from summit racing ( SDH-D4K Dust Cap Kit 1550 Series (Mfr. #: D4K) and want to install it before attaching the rear driveshaft. Someone on here showed a thread of that being replaced awhile back and mine was completely disintegrated when pulling it apart.

Thanks for the help Esteban.
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Postby Esteban » Wed Aug 22, 2018 2:11 pm

curlrider11 wrote:Wow very helpful and very cool exploded view of the drive shaft and yoke parts....seems like from the photos there wasn't a washer in the u-joints (looking at parts 7+8 from your photo upload).


The manual describes the following:
#7: RETAINER-oil seal, bearing
#8: SEAL-oil, bearing
------------

I was doing another search and ended up in Chinese parts seller that listed the following Nissan #s that corresponds to GUN-30 (the Chinese part #):
37125-44025
37125-85425
37125-85460
37125- 85461
37126- 44000
37126-85460

Then ended up in a SKF site, and they have part # UJ331 cross referenced to 37125-85425 above. Rockauto had one so I ordered. Since I have the bare cross or spider, as soon as I get it I will measure. Maybe inside is different that the Spicer of Neapco. Outside dimensions are the same.

I think that I had like 10 pages open in my browser at some point. Was difficult to keep track.
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Postby Esteban » Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:18 pm

This is the picture of the original u-joint cross that I mentioned. The part # is 37126-85460.

The measurements are exactly the same as posted by curlrider11

U-joint cross.jpg


For those interested in the price tag, it's 50 sucres. That was the Ecuadorean currency in those years (now is dollars). The equivalent was $2 at that time.
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Postby curlrider11 » Thu Aug 23, 2018 10:14 am

Wow thanks for the photo and the part number Esteban. So no luck on my end finding u-joints from Japan. They said they're out of stock on the bearings they had listed online. It'd be interesting to see if any of those that you might be chasing down Esteban will be a fit or similar. But having that part # is helpful!

As for now, the u joints have been serviced, greased and reassembled into the yoke. I'll upload a few photos of that process if anyone is interested in seeing what it's like. Back on the road and running well!
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Postby mad4hws » Thu Aug 23, 2018 1:31 pm

I know that 4WD Products in Australia stocks ujoints. I think they work too. When I had the Minion Missile's transmission rebuilt, I think the transmission guys installed them. I'm not 100% sure though - the new ujoints were in the box of parts I gave them and I didn't get them, back, so I think they work. Anyone else have experience with them? With the axles being rebuilt, I will be placing another order in the next few weeks. If there is any interest in these, let me know and I can include more in the order.
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Postby curlrider11 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:15 am

I wonder of they were a perfect fit or if the grinder was required. I am in process of putting my repacked and cleaned ones back in the patrol since they were still in pretty top condition. Will keep you guys posted.
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Postby Esteban » Sun Aug 26, 2018 7:25 pm

Unfortunately the SKF UJ331 U-joint that arrived over the weekend has the same diameter for the cross at 0.773" than the ones member Curlrider11 purchased. It was a big disappointment. As a reminder the original measure 0.679".

I'll contact member Raul Rodriguez from Colombia to see what options are over there.

Thanks again to Curlrider11 for his insight in this issue, that certainly will help avoid some frustration to those that do decide to install these alternates U-joints grinding the yokes.
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