Moore_rb's 66 Ebay Patrol (re)build thread

[Swerve]

Again, looking great, and again anything you cant do

[Esteban]

Excellent!! Really good descriptions and pictures to match.

The two sending units are original and are the two models used. In the photo the one at the top is the latest. Probably since 68 and up. While you're at it, please report the ohm readings at low and high levels. I think they're different and so are the gauges at the panel.

[moore_rb]

Excellent!! Really good descriptions and pictures to match.

The two sending units are original and are the two models used. In the photo the one at the top is the latest. Probably since 68 and up. While you're at it, please report the ohm readings at low and high levels. I think they're different and so are the gauges at the panel.

That's good information about the sender- Thanks - I will check the ohm readings more closely this afternoon and post an update.

[RiverPatrol]

Great gas tank write up! this is actually something that every new Patrol owner needs to do to their Patrol. I have done a similar process on several of mine. I haven't been brave enough to actually use the muratic acid, although I bought it for that purpose. The fiberglass is a great idea. I have used JB weld and gas tank repair epoxy before, with very good results. I have sand blasted a couple tanks and ended up with pinholes, but repaired them with the gas tank repair epoxy. They're holding up well.

Thanks for the very detailed tutorial. Many people can save their existing tanks with this process.

[moore_rb]

please report the ohm readings at low and high levels. I think they're different and so are the gauges at the panel.

Ok, here's what the ohm meter came up with for the senders:

The newer style (the top one in the photo farther up the page) reads 100 ohms at "Full" and about 20 ohms at "empty"

The older style sender (bottom) reads 90 ohms at Full, and 10 ohms at Empty.

I think I'm going to put the newer stye sender back in the green Patrol, and use the older style one in my other Patrol ( I like that you can take the little cap off it and visually confirm that it is working, without having to remove it from the tank )

So I'll have to break out all 3 of the gauge clusters I have, and try to figure out how to make sure I have at least one compatible fuel gauge for each type of sender...

Looks like I'll be refurbishing my gauges sooner than I had anticipated.

[faux40]

Making an older sender work with a newer gauge should be easy... As the two readings are simply offset by 10 ohms AND have the same scale length, adding a 10-ohm resistor in SERIES to an older sender will make it scale correctly for a newer one.

In the case of old sender --> new gauge, to raise the resistance to match we add a resistor in series:
Formula for resistors in series: Rtotal = R1 + R2 + R3 + ... + Rn


In the case of new sender --> old gauge, to lower the resistance to match we can try adding a resistor in parallel, but it won't work. There's probably a way to hack it, particularly if you're willing to open the sender up, or if you want to build an active circuit, but that get's complicated. I say simply bend the arm so it hit's 20 ohms at empty and don't worry about full. Here's the parallel resistor formula:

FormulaResistorParallel01.gif

Here's how it all plays out in the fuel level circuit:

[IrishPatrol]

Wow as usual, I'm impressed. Looks great.

[moore_rb]

Making an older sender work with a newer gauge should be easy... As the two readings are simply offset by 10 ohms AND have the same scale length, adding a 10-ohm resistor in SERIES to an older sender will make it scale correctly for a newer one.

In the case of old sender --> new gauge, to raise the resistance to match we add a resistor in series:
Formula for resistors in series: Rtotal = R1 + R2 + R3 + ... + Rn


In the case of new sender --> old gauge, to lower the resistance to match we can try adding a resistor in parallel, but it won't work. There's probably a way to hack it, particularly if you're willing to open the sender up, or if you want to build an active circuit, but that get's complicated. I say simply bend the arm so it hit's 20 ohms at empty and don't worry about full. Here's the parallel resistor formula:

FormulaResistorParallel01.gif

Here's how it all plays out in the fuel level circuit:

Watch out Esteban. Faux40 is gunning hard for your title of "Super Awesome Diagram Guy" ...

This is all well and good John, but the actual question I have is: How am I going to tell if the multi-gauges I have are pre-68, or 68-newer...? Is there a visual difference?

[moore_rb]

A couple more pics from the fuel tank project.

When I took everything apart, there were these felt strips between the straps and the tank, and between the tank and the skid pan:



I'm not sure if felt was the original material that Nissan used, or if someone had done this in the past, but either way, it didn't seem like a good idea to use a material that absorbs and holds moisture, so what I used iinstead were rubber strips taken from an old serpentine belt off my F350 (hahaha - I never throw away anything except egg shells and banana peels)



I just glued them to the straps and to the skid pan with some silicone




then I hung the assembly back up under the Patrol and got it all ready to plumb back in:





My main-man Flaggoni saved me a day wandering the junkyards- he sent me a reservoir that fits my Master Cylinder- THANK YOU, Bill...



and on another note... AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH !!!! When is it ever going to stop...????

More junk wire.

[Coyote Patrol]

Looking good Robert.