Bosque 67 Patrol

[bosque]

Very solid whap with the edge of a piece of angle iron. I was concerned with chipping the edge but the weight of the hammer and the beefyness of the drum said "hit me".

I think the combo is very important.....
1. Back out 2- adjusters counterclockwise. I could feel the wheel loosest when I backed off almost to the end.
2. Knock the rust loose with a hammer and a beater block on edge so your hitting endgrain. Do this everywhere and watch crap drop out the bottom. This was locking it in.
3. Spray oil into the lug stud holes.
4. Let the hard solid tapping & turning begin.


The drum seems way fine in terms of meat and is smooth so real happy. The oil leak means the right/rearward cyl is unsealed.
Everything else looks tops to me.

[Esteban]

Good description and photos combined. I've been doing your method for a long time. I normally use a chisel, but on its side.

This portion of your post should be moved into the technical stuff as a sticky. Maybe after you do the seal change on the brake cylinder

[Swerve]

I use same method, but my drill bits chuck key and a 4lb hammer

[bosque]

This really is Mikesums break down numbered so thanks to Mike. The photo shows the angle perpendicular to drum edge only because I was able to shove it there to get the shot. I tried a bar flat and hit the bar but it was not a dead enough blow....whatever it takes right?
I think I'll steal one from the 62 and get this puppy rollin'. The Wheeler Crest behind my house was melting off snow like crazy and right now we have had a few days more up above 8500 ft. It makes for an adventurous ride cause there are some creeks and washes to cross....not too deep just novel. I was getting set to go when the brake failed so I'll be ready soon.

[MadTripper]

When I had to pull the drums from Plow Patrol, I believe I used anti-seize on the surfaces before I put it back together. Just a thought.

[norville]

When I had to pull the drums from Plow Patrol, I believe I used anti-seize on the surfaces before I put it back together. Just a thought.

definitely do this..

[bosque]

Anti-seize.......just the excuse I need to quit today!

All parts look good....now they are cleaned up. There was a slight pinhole in the piston cover and I think that could have let a bit of moisture in and formed a deposit and old brake fluid....golden stains in cyl and on piston. I used 400 wet and dry with alcohol as the liquid. It cleaned up so nice, I did the other "fore" cylinder too. I measure tolerances and cyl walls are 1" or less. Dont mix up the cylinders. The bleeder screws were screwed up and clogged also but soaking and compressed air cleared it.





I found some interesting rubber parts that I received from a lot of parts I purchased.

These are Miyako piston cups and cylinder covers on the left....Nissan/Nabco on right. They came as a kit Miyako #KW-56029 W/C Cup Kit S715. The cover had embossed, MIYAKO WB-01085 0-24. The piston cups had MIYAGO A20 (another one said A13) WC-01195 1H. I tried to put on a cover and it is tight but would seal. They are tall so I could see them possibly riding high and being touched by the brake shoe...maybe wear a bit. I think this PO was pretty bright and can see he used one of the piston cups from the kit. They are the thing that fits almost if not exact.
The Nabco cyl cover says NABCO 41134-30100. The piston cups say NABCO Seiken 1H 628.... (oddly these last three digits run wild between the 7-cups I have : # 628, 127, 542, 519, 563, 544, 588).

[RiverPatrol]

Awesome stuff. Thanks for detailing it with pictures. Everything looks nice and clean now, it should seal well. You can try and keep the bleeders from clogging by getting some vacuum caps from the parts store and covering them with the caps.

As an alternative to 400 wet dry I usually use a Scotchbrite pad and some brake fluid.

This is a great how-to for everyone, especially people that aren't familiar with taking the cylinders apart. Makes it much less scary. Maybe you could post the how-to in the Brakes section?

[Esteban]

This is a great how-to for everyone, especially people that aren't familiar with taking the cylinders apart. Makes it much less scary. Maybe you could post the how-to in the Brakes section?

X2

Excellent pictures Dave. We can even smell the fluid!

While you're at it, is there any notable difference between the Nabco seals and the Miyago? Can they be interchangeable?

The wheel cylinders where manufactured by either Nabco or Tokico according to the manuals. Is there any marks on yours than can help identify each?

I have always dealt with Tokico, with Seiken being the seal manufacturer.

And not to bash Toyota fans, but their wheel cylinders were notorious for seizing. Different metal combinations, I guess.

[bosque]

The Miyago piston cups look the same. The cover it taller and a bit tight. but will work. My wheel cyls are Nabco.