My 1969 Patrol

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Postby azsteve » Sun May 12, 2013 10:52 pm

2869ral wrote:Hi Andrew these are supposed to take leaded fuel, you can run it without, but the lead actually lubricates the valves. I reccomend using the lead additive whenever possible. I believe the carb is a single barrel rochester, kits are available at any parts store. To double check look right under the choke linkage on the top piece of your carb. It will say rochester there if it is. Also your original mechanical fuel pump would be on the left side of the block just above the oil pan between the motor mount and the oil filter. If you have an eletrical pump, there is probably a blockoff plate there now. The reason for mounting an electric fuel pump closer to the fuel tank is to pressurize as much of the fuel line as possible. This raises the boiling point of the fuel in the line. If you are not having a problem with vapor lock, i wouldnt move it. HOpe this helps.


See, i toldja ron was the man... he knows his stuff!
1966 L60 Patrol

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-probably what my last words will be.
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Postby Esteban » Mon May 13, 2013 10:12 am

Andrew, welcome to the forum! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Ron, it's been a year by now that I've been unable to find the Lead substitute CD-2 that I was using. Probably it's banned by now. Any ideas on what to use?

I do push the rpm on my P engine constantly, and when coming to work once a week in the Patrol, I'm at 2500 to 3000 rpm (~60 mph) most of the time.
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Postby Coyote Patrol » Mon May 13, 2013 10:17 am

Gunk makes a lead substitute treats 20 gallons of fuel. Napa part# M5012
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Postby RiverPatrol » Mon May 13, 2013 10:27 am

It's interesting that this Patrol is titled as a '70. This is the only one that I am aware of in the US. The VIN places second from last at the end of the Registry, the last one being an '82, yet it is only about 13 numbers after the one before it in the Registry. The date of manufacture (6-1969) definitely makes it a '69. I think this is probably the last Patrol imported and sold in the US. That gives it a bit of notoriety! :D
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Postby miksum56 » Mon May 13, 2013 11:33 am

RiverPatrol wrote:Thanks for the VIN pic!

I'm intrigued. I haven't heard of using oven cleaner as a paint remover before, but knowing how caustic the stuff is it wouldn't surprise me. I'm looking forward to seeing the results. :)

Been using easy off for 30 years Leslie. Half an hour for degreasing and if left all nite the paint hoses right off
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Postby Andrew » Mon May 13, 2013 11:44 am

RiverPatrol wrote:It's interesting that this Patrol is titled as a '70. This is the only one that I am aware of in the US. The VIN places second from last at the end of the Registry, the last one being an '82, yet it is only about 13 numbers after the one before it in the Registry. The date of manufacture (6-1969) definitely makes it a '69. I think this is probably the last Patrol imported and sold in the US. That gives it a bit of notoriety! :D


Cool!

I am working on removing the carb today. Hopefully, I can get it off and get started on a rebuild.
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Postby Andrew » Mon May 13, 2013 8:32 pm

Rebuilt the carb today and it sounds much better. I drove it around the neighborhood. Brakes need to be bled and I think the headgasket probably needs to be changed. Engine is running hot. It's been fun so far!
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Postby RiverPatrol » Mon May 13, 2013 8:46 pm

You drove it, cool! :banana-dreads:

Check the thermostat for the hot running issue. The head gaskets on these engines rarely blow.
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Postby Andrew » Mon May 13, 2013 9:44 pm

RiverPatrol wrote:You drove it, cool! :banana-dreads:

Check the thermostat for the hot running issue. The head gaskets on these engines rarely blow.


The gauge doesn't show the temp. How do I check the thermostat? I know where it is but I'm not sure what to do. The engine was a little steamy when I popped the hood to check the carb.

I noticed some dampness on the sides of the block, that is what made me think that it was leaking.
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Postby bosque » Mon May 13, 2013 10:03 pm

One way would be nto take the thermostat out and put in a pan of water on the stove. Use a temp gauge in the water and watch the center thing expand or contract. I think the temp should be 170+ for our thermostat to actuate/open. I bet clearing the system would help too but maybe you changed water and flushed it out. :handgestures-fingerscrossed:
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